Patty Chuang

If you have ever come to Komatsu in Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan, it was probably just to transfer on your way to Kanazawa nearby. This time, however, I did the opposite — I took a half-hour train ride from Kanazawa to Komatsu Station, then drove another 20 minutes into the mountains, all for one purpose: Auberge eaufeu. (Directly from Komatsu Airport, it’s about a 30-minute drive.) 

In July, I visited “Ginza Kojyu,” a two-Michelin-star kaiseki restaurant in the fiercely competitive culinary district of Ginza, Tokyo. Located on the fourth floor of a building amidst Ginza’s glittering facades, its discreet signage is easy to miss if you’re not looking closely.

When the elevator doors opened, a different world unfolded — a small garden with stone paths led me to the counter seats. Chef Toru Okuda, with his gentle demeanor and calm presence, greeted us from behind a 700-year-old hinoki cypress counter. After a brief exchange of pleasantries, he surprised us by bringing out hamo (pike conger), a prized summer fish, and began skillfully performing the traditional honegiri (bone-cutting) technique right in front of our eyes.

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