On the day I walked into Hangzhou Botanical Garden, the leaves at Taoyuan Ridge had already turned a lush, overwhelming green. The plum rains had not yet begun, and the summer heat had not fully set in. In Jiangnan, these are the most comfortable days of the year.

It was spring when I returned to Suzhou's the House of Xiding.I walked through that familiar wooden door, and once again came the greeting: “Welcome home.” Last time, I took it as nothing more than a heartfelt pleasantry. But hearing it now, I realized I trulyhadcome back.

For the first time, the Michelin Guide for Shanghai, Jiangsu, and Zhejiang has been released as a combined edition.