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Located in Sanjo, Niigata, Uozen stands quietly amidst rice fields and rural landscapes. It was once a traditional Japanese eatery run by Chef Inoue’s father-in-law. In 2013, the couple took over the space and transformed it into a French restaurant rooted in the land’s essence.
Restaurants
If you have ever come to Komatsu in Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan, it was probably just to transfer on your way to Kanazawa nearby. This time, however, I did the opposite — I took a half-hour train ride from Kanazawa to Komatsu Station, then drove another 20 minutes into the mountains, all for one purpose: Auberge eaufeu. (Directly from Komatsu Airport, it’s about a 30-minute drive.)
Crowned five times as the world’s best restaurant, Noma held a four-day guest residency in Taipei from August 8–11, set against the lush backdrop of YMS by onefifteen on Yangmingshan. Once a 1950s dormitory compound, YMS has preserved its mid-century modernist architecture while weaving together natural scenery, art curation, and gastronomy—an oasis on the city’s edge. Within its grounds, Lab 10 and Restaurant 12 are the first to open, offering respectively a contemporary tea experience and a seafood-focused menu rooted in local waters.
In July, I visited “Ginza Kojyu,” a two-Michelin-star kaiseki restaurant in the fiercely competitive culinary district of Ginza, Tokyo. Located on the fourth floor of a building amidst Ginza’s glittering facades, its discreet signage is easy to miss if you’re not looking closely.
When the elevator doors opened, a different world unfolded — a small garden with stone paths led me to the counter seats. Chef Toru Okuda, with his gentle demeanor and calm presence, greeted us from behind a 700-year-old hinoki cypress counter. After a brief exchange of pleasantries, he surprised us by bringing out hamo (pike conger), a prized summer fish, and began skillfully performing the traditional honegiri (bone-cutting) technique right in front of our eyes.
In 2024, one restaurant made gelato its star — MINIMAL — and stood out for making gelato its central offering, becoming the world’s only Michelin one-star gelato specialty shop. Its achievement has drawn curious eyes from around the globe.
The phenomenon of luxury brands stepping into the dining world is gaining momentum globally. From flagship cafés to Michelin-starred collaborations, these ventures blend haute couture with haute cuisine, but do they truly result in a win-win synergy between brand and chef, or is the harmony more elusive than it seems?
I’ve always loved trying fusion cuisine, but sometimes it goes wrong—novelty for novelty’s sake. Crony is the opposite: rooted firmly in French technique, showcasing Japanese produce, and taking inspiration from Nordic elements.
In a recent conversation with a chef, I casually asked, “How have things been lately?” He responded with a faint, weary smile, then quietly began talking about the pressure he had been under.
Tucked quietly inside this mock-Mediterranean village is Due Camini, the resort’s fine dining restaurant. The atmosphere is calm and unhurried. The chef, Domingo Schingaro, doesn’t speak much about his philosophy, but by the time you finish the menu, it becomes clear that every choice is intentional.
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