If you have ever come to Komatsu in Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan, it was probably just to transfer on your way to Kanazawa nearby. This time, however, I did the opposite — I took a half-hour train ride from Kanazawa to Komatsu Station, then drove another 20 minutes into the mountains, all for one purpose: Auberge eaufeu. (Directly from Komatsu Airport, it’s about a 30-minute drive.) 

@The Japan Times

Elementary school-reborned Auberge eaufeu, it is surrounded by mountains and greenery. Besides my previous transits through Komatsu Airport, this was my first real visit. Compared to Tokyo’s many members-only restaurants — where getting a reservation feels like winning the lottery — I find it far more exciting to discover hidden gems. And eaufeu had long been on my list, especially after it was featured on the list of Destination Restaurants 2025 by The Japan Times.

In French, eaufeu means “water and fire.” As I stepped into the restaurant, what first caught my eyes was the long wood counter and the blaze of open flames behind. The dining room preserves the layout of the old elementary school cafeteria: minimalist and modern, in shades of grey and wood, accented by bold, colorful paintings on the walls. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame an endless view of the surrounding nature.

Since French cuisine forms the backbone here, I was expecting the amuse-bouche to be a classic tartlet. Instead, it leaned Japanese: pumpkin somen with eggplant and plum sauce, Muscat grapes, wild boar ham wrapped in shiso leaves. A winter melon carved into the shape of a frog added a touch of whimsy. 

Muscat, Boar Ham & Shiso Leaf, Winter Melon

But the standout was undoubtedly the  saury sushi. Late summer into fall is when saury is at its fattiest, its translucent layers gleaming under a light charcoal smoke and sear, shimmering like it had been brushed with glitter. The sushi rice — already seasoned with vinegar — was mixed with the saury innards, lending a briny depth. The fat’s lusciousness and the rice’s sweetness merged in a single bite: pure umami bliss.

Saury Sushi

Speaking of rice, eaufeu sits just five minutes on foot from the well-known Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute. Unsurprisingly, Noguchi’s sake pairs naturally with the menu, and rice in various forms appears throughout the menu. Indeed, another favorite dish of mine — fried loach, was served with a dipping sauce of amazake, smoked mugwort, and yogurt. The loaches were coated lightly with flour and fried whole until crisp, bones and all. The dip, rich with the tang of yogurt and the sweetness of rice, was irresistible. It reminded me of the tofu-yogurt dip I once had at three-star L’effervescence in Tokyo — so good I even asked for more portions — and here at eaufeu, the flavor was just as unforgettable.

Fried Loach, Amazake Yogurt Sauce

Next came a series of vegetable-driven plates. A “trio of okra” stood out: red, green, and white okra charred, then dressed with a stock reduced from vegetable trimmings, brimming with umami. Hard to believe it was vegan. The final flourish — a drizzle of whey sauce — emulsified with the vegetable jus, lifting the flavors to another level. My mind jumped to a dish I had not long ago at Sage Gastro in Shanghai: chawanmushi with a mussel whey sauce I couldn’t stop thinking about. Here at eaufeu, that haunting flavor was reborn. I wiped the plate with bread to get every single drop of the sauce. 

Okra, Vegetable jus, Whey

“Hmm? Did the kitchen serve you an empty plate? I’ll have to report that,” the manager joked as he passed.

Then came roasted green bell pepper with barigoule sauce, instantly transporting me to the French Riviera. Traditionally used with artichokes, barigoule is made by sautéing shallots, garlic, and thyme in olive oil, then deglazing with white wine and simmering. Here, the chef used tomatoes instead, creating a fruitier version that resembled a Provençal ratatouille.

The “eaufeu maki (wrap)” has been on the menu since the restaurant opened, with its fillings change with seasons. This version featured spiced and grilled minced bear meat, fermented onions, jalapeños, burdock, all wrapped in a tortilla infused with shrub leaves for a herbal aroma. This wasn’t my first time eating bear, but unlike previous preparations that highlighted its gamey flavor, this one played with acidity, spice, and fermentation. The mix of cuts gave the mince both juiciness and sweetness, while the fermented onions added brightness that cut right through the richness.

Eaufeu Maki（left）、Green Pepper（right）

Next came a bowl of venison from Fukui’s Eiheiji, famous for its game. Cooked rare, the lean venison breast was tender and sweet. The clear broth, simmered from venison bones and vegetables, looked unassuming but was packed with concentrated depth.

Venison

A waft of buttery pastry announced the arrival of the tomato pie. At first glance a classic French pithivier, it turned out to be a showcase for local fruit tomatoes. The puff pastry, baked golden, shattered with a crisp crack, releasing a filling of bright, plump tomatoes from a local farm. With a mix of herbs and vegetable powder, then paired with Thai green curry sauce where galangal and lemongrass aroma stood out. I later also learned that this farm also sometimes supplies tomatoes to three-star Joël Robuchon in Tokyo.

Tomato Pie

For the main course: wild boar loin from Noto with imperial greens. Smoked and grilled, the meat was rosy and tender, its crackling skin crisp, its sauce — a glossy reduction of boar stock, shallots, and mustard seeds — deeply savory. I especially loved the tail end cut, which was a perfect balance of fat and lean that has the flavor at its peak.

Noto Wild Boar Loin

Dessert brought the much-anticipated fig tart, the season’s highlight. Inside the tart was fig compote, then it was topped with caramelized figs, kaga-boucha (a type of local tea from Ishikawa prefecture) whipped cream, and hojicha ice cream. White figs, which are sweeter and milkier in taste, were torched to beautifully caramelized.The roasted notes of Kaga Boucha tea balanced the sweetness, leaving a long and elegant finish. Each spoonful delivered contrast: crisp and creamy, hot and cold. Full as I was, I couldn’t resist — the tart vanished in moments.

Fig Tart & Kaga Boucha

Eaufeu’s Chef Shota Itoi, born in Kyoto, was just 26 when he won the RED U-35 culinary competition in 2018, the youngest champion in its history. He also worked at L’Auberge de l’Ill in Alsace (then three stars), The French Laundry in California, and was also featured on Forbes Asia’s “30 Under 30” list in 2019. Today, he is one of Japan’s most closely watched young talents.

Chef Shota Itoi@madamefigaro

While Ishikawa’s ingredients have long been celebrated, under Chef Itoi’s hand they shine brighter still. In an era when many restaurants make a show of sustainability, here it’s second nature — close ties with local farmers, careful use of every ingredient, nothing wasted. Chef Itoi builds on that with creativity, his foundation in French cuisine layered with Japanese sensibility and touches from Nordic to Southeast Asian influences, all showcasing the treasures of the land.

Dining Room

Before visiting, I mentioned to a few people that I was heading to Komatsu. Nearly all replied, “Oh, to eaufeu?” Clearly, the restaurant has already become synonymous with the town. The manager, however, also mentioned: “For most people, Komatsu is still just a stopover. Sadly, the spotlight always goes to Kanazawa or Toyama.”

“Destination restaurant” can indeed be a double-edged sword. One might criticize the carbon footprint of traveling solely for a meal — as with Norway’s Iris. Yet when a restaurant inspires people to make the journey, the local economy, too, is revitalized. Passing through the quiet, almost slumbering streets of Komatsu on my way back, I understood more the significance of eaufeu’s in this little town.

Would I come all this way again to Komatsu just for eaufeu? Without hesitation, yes.

*Postscript: The next morning’s breakfast came packed in a picnic basket, to be enjoyed anywhere — in the lounge, the dining room, out in the fields, or on the terrace. Abundant, playful, and full of heart, it had been quite a while since I was moved by the hospitality.

Breakfast Picnic Basket

Author:Patty Chuang

Images: Patty Chuang/madamefigaro/ The Japan Times