In July, I visited “Ginza Kojyu,” a two-Michelin-star kaiseki restaurant in the fiercely competitive culinary district of Ginza, Tokyo. Located on the fourth floor of a building amidst Ginza’s glittering facades, its discreet signage is easy to miss if you’re not looking closely.

When the elevator doors opened, a different world unfolded — a small garden with stone paths led me to the counter seats. Chef Toru Okuda, with his gentle demeanor and calm presence, greeted us from behind a 700-year-old hinoki cypress counter. After a brief exchange of pleasantries, he surprised us by bringing out hamo (pike conger), a prized summer fish, and began skillfully performing the traditional honegiri (bone-cutting) technique right in front of our eyes.

我睡過的酒店 工作的關係,不論是美食團,還是自己在各國「測試餐廳」踩點、寫餐廳評論,我常常入住不同形式的 […]

This year, I came across a short documentary on YouTube called "Evolution of the Snow Country", where a crisp, monochrome, ink-painting-like world created by winter snow that blankets Niigata looks the most impressive when the train passes through those tunnels.

In 1972, Italian jewelry brand Bulgari created a set of brooches featuring Mount Fuji and pine trees, seemingly destined for a connection with Japan. This April, amidst the blooming cherry blossoms, the Bulgari Hotel is officially opened. It stands tall in a modern skyscraper behind the historic Tokyo Station, overlooking the cityscape and distant Mount Fuji. The hotel not only brings Italian craftsmanship but also cleverly combines Japanese aesthetic elements, radiating a subtle and restrained brilliance. Together with the cuisine by three-Michelin-starred Italian chef Niko Romito, one can immerse himself in a dazzling moment, enjoying the best of Tokyo without leaving the hotel.

Tokyo's Michelin two-starred restaurant Florilège has been temporarily closed since this 20 July and will be moving to a new location. For many people, this would be a reluctant farewell to the delicious memories they have had here.

The most common question I got on this visit to Noma Kyoto was: Is it good?

After 20 years of championing new Nordic cuisine, Chef René Redzepi has decided to transform Noma Copenhagen into a full-time food laboratory by the end of 2024. Those who want to have a taste of Noma's avant-garde cuisine will have to follow up closely on periodic pop-ups held in the future.

"Coming to Japan was not part of the plan," says Chef Lionel Beccat at the French restaurant Esquisse in Tokyo. Chef Beccat was born in Corsica but moved to Marseille with his family at the age of four. As a major port on the Mediterranean coast, the city of Marseille is a fascinating multi-cultural melting pot in its own right. "Marseille defines who I am," he says, with a calm, slightly melancholic temperament but his eyes shining stars of wisdom.

I have known Chef Hiroyasu Kawate of Michelin two-starred restaurant Florilège in Tokyo for many years. He is a champion of nature and connects his cuisine with it; even “Florilège” means a collection of beautiful poems like flowers. He is a master of using a single ingredient in a variety of ways, fusing simplicity with sophistication, and intuitively applying delicious flavour combinations to bring out the best in each ingredient.

Japan's only Michelin three-starred Chinese restaurant, Sazenka, aims to showcase the essence of Chinese cuisine with the splendid ingredients in Japan. The experience was truly flawless and full of pleasant surprises. The veritable three stars has made Sazenka the most convincing and worth-visiting restaurant on this trip to Tokyo.

When I returned to Tokyo as soon as Japan reopened after three years of Covid, I felt quite excited the moment my plane landed at Haneda Airport. To celebrate my other half's birthday, we decided to leave some time for catching up, but the stomach was reserved for the restaurant where we had wanted to go to for years.

Wechat