Tokyo

In July, I visited “Ginza Kojyu,” a two-Michelin-star kaiseki restaurant in the fiercely competitive culinary district of Ginza, Tokyo. Located on the fourth floor of a building amidst Ginza’s glittering facades, its discreet signage is easy to miss if you’re not looking closely.

When the elevator doors opened, a different world unfolded — a small garden with stone paths led me to the counter seats. Chef Toru Okuda, with his gentle demeanor and calm presence, greeted us from behind a 700-year-old hinoki cypress counter. After a brief exchange of pleasantries, he surprised us by bringing out hamo (pike conger), a prized summer fish, and began skillfully performing the traditional honegiri (bone-cutting) technique right in front of our eyes.

I’ve always loved trying fusion cuisine, but sometimes it goes wrong—novelty for novelty’s sake. Crony is the opposite: rooted firmly in French technique, showcasing Japanese produce, and taking inspiration from Nordic elements.

A person who is able to do simple things to the fullest without being distracted can be called a shokunin (professional). But what is the definition of a person who goes beyond being professional?

"Coming to Japan was not part of the plan," says Chef Lionel Beccat at the French restaurant Esquisse in Tokyo. Chef Beccat was born in Corsica but moved to Marseille with his family at the age of four. As a major port on the Mediterranean coast, the city of Marseille is a fascinating multi-cultural melting pot in its own right. "Marseille defines who I am," he says, with a calm, slightly melancholic temperament but his eyes shining stars of wisdom.

I have known Chef Hiroyasu Kawate of Michelin two-starred restaurant Florilège in Tokyo for many years. He is a champion of nature and connects his cuisine with it; even “Florilège” means a collection of beautiful poems like flowers. He is a master of using a single ingredient in a variety of ways, fusing simplicity with sophistication, and intuitively applying delicious flavour combinations to bring out the best in each ingredient.

Japan's only Michelin three-starred Chinese restaurant, Sazenka, aims to showcase the essence of Chinese cuisine with the splendid ingredients in Japan. The experience was truly flawless and full of pleasant surprises. The veritable three stars has made Sazenka the most convincing and worth-visiting restaurant on this trip to Tokyo.

When I returned to Tokyo as soon as Japan reopened after three years of Covid, I felt quite excited the moment my plane landed at Haneda Airport. To celebrate my other half's birthday, we decided to leave some time for catching up, but the stomach was reserved for the restaurant where we had wanted to go to for years.

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