Japan

If you have ever come to Komatsu in Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan, it was probably just to transfer on your way to Kanazawa nearby. This time, however, I did the opposite — I took a half-hour train ride from Kanazawa to Komatsu Station, then drove another 20 minutes into the mountains, all for one purpose: Auberge eaufeu. (Directly from Komatsu Airport, it’s about a 30-minute drive.) 

In July, I visited “Ginza Kojyu,” a two-Michelin-star kaiseki restaurant in the fiercely competitive culinary district of Ginza, Tokyo. Located on the fourth floor of a building amidst Ginza’s glittering facades, its discreet signage is easy to miss if you’re not looking closely.

When the elevator doors opened, a different world unfolded — a small garden with stone paths led me to the counter seats. Chef Toru Okuda, with his gentle demeanor and calm presence, greeted us from behind a 700-year-old hinoki cypress counter. After a brief exchange of pleasantries, he surprised us by bringing out hamo (pike conger), a prized summer fish, and began skillfully performing the traditional honegiri (bone-cutting) technique right in front of our eyes.

The phenomenon of luxury brands stepping into the dining world is gaining momentum globally. From flagship cafés to Michelin-starred collaborations, these ventures blend haute couture with haute cuisine, but do they truly result in a win-win synergy between brand and chef, or is the harmony more elusive than it seems?

I’ve always loved trying fusion cuisine, but sometimes it goes wrong—novelty for novelty’s sake. Crony is the opposite: rooted firmly in French technique, showcasing Japanese produce, and taking inspiration from Nordic elements.

I've always loved sushi. Being in Niigata Prefecture, the “Land of Rice and Fish”, sushi was definitely not to be missed. Even more so, our destination that day was no ordinary sushi joint, but “Sushi Tokiwa,” a Michelin one-star establishment that’s notoriously difficult to book.

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