{"id":8040,"date":"2025-12-28T10:34:47","date_gmt":"2025-12-28T02:34:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/?p=8040"},"modified":"2025-12-28T10:44:54","modified_gmt":"2025-12-28T02:44:54","slug":"hirasansou-shiga","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/en\/hirasansou-shiga\/","title":{"rendered":"Into The Mountains Just For A Bear Hot Pot In Hirasansou, Japan"},"content":{"rendered":"

Traveling a full hour by car\u00a0into the mountains\u00a0from central Kyoto to Hirasansou\u00a0in Shiga Prefecture was all for one reason: the\u00a0Moon Bear Hot Pot, available only in late autumn and winter.<\/p>\n

This wasn\u2019t my first time eating bear meat. I had previously encountered it at the French restaurant L\u2019\u00e9vo in Toyama. Its abundant gelatin and deep, savory aroma left a powerful impression on me (earned at the cost of a nearly two-hour drive). That experience made me more eager to try Hirasansou\u2019s\u00a0signature moon\u00a0bear hot pot.<\/p>\n

As soon as\u00a0we arrived, the proprietress\u00a0was already\u00a0standing outside, braving the cold to welcome us. Stepping into the private dining room, warmth enveloped us instantly. Beyond the floor-to-ceiling windows lay an elegant garden scene: a small bridge, ponds, and crimson maple leaves at their peak, forming a tableau that belongs only to late autumn.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

The meal began with hassun.\u00a0Gooey miso-marinated egg yolk,\u00a0paired with wild mushrooms and komatsuna, along with glossy ginkgo nuts whose gentle bitterness made the dish refreshing.\n

\nNext came sashimi: carp, iwana, and lightly seared venison. Hearing \u201ccarp,\u201d we exchanged glances\u2014was it the carp we\u2019re thinking of? The proprietress pointed to the pond outside the window and laughed, saying, \u201cYes,\u00a0it\u2019s from there\u2014it\u2019s actually very delicious!\u201d The sauce showed thoughtful creativity as well: a sesame yuzu vinegar. Still, I personally preferred the iwana. A member of the salmonid family and emblematic of mountain streams, its silvery sheen made it resemble a sardine at first glance. The flesh was delicate and flavorful. While iwana is most often grilled with salt, serving it as sashimi here highlighted its refined fattiness. The venison tataki, though lean, was remarkably tender and served semi-rare; dipped lightly in soy sauce and wasabi, it delivered the purest expression of mountain game.<\/p>\n

\"\"Hassun\/ Carp, Iwana & Venison Tataki<\/p>\n

Then came the bear and softshell turtle soup. The softshell turtle\u00a0broth was clear and deeply savory, while the turtle meat was rich in collagen\u2014especially the\u00a0parts closer to the\u00a0skin. Two years ago, I wouldn\u2019t have dared eat softshell turtle, but after trying several softshell turtle dishes across Japan in recent years, I\u2019ve come to appreciate\u00a0its\u00a0broth\u2019s unique sweetness and umami, and better understand the devotion it inspires. The bear meat in the soup looked like slices of pork belly, lavish with fat, adding body and meaty aroma to the broth.<\/p>\n

\"\"Bear and Softshell Turtle Soup<\/p>\n

The sweetness of the bear meat was striking, but with only two slices, it merely whetted my appetite, making me even more impatient for the Moon Bear Hot Pot. Before that, however, came\u00a0eel. Nearby Lake Biwa, Japan\u2019s largest freshwater lake, is rich in biodiversity, producing an abundance of freshwater fish. The eel we enjoyed that day came from Lake Biwa and was impressively large, cooked using the traditional Edo-period \u201ctsutsu-yaki\u201d method: cut into sections, deboned, and grilled without splitting it open. Its juices remained locked inside, highlighting the bouncy texture of Biwa eel. The skin was crisp, with drops of fat seeping through. Prepared as shirayaki and seasoned only with salt, the eel\u2019s pure flavor shone through. As I instinctively looked for sansho pepper\u2014my usual eel companion\u2014I took a bite and was pleasantly surprised to find it had already been lightly brushed on. Its gentle citrusy aroma was subtle and refreshing.<\/p>\n

\"\"Eel<\/p>\n

At this point, the\u00a0chef and owner of Hirasansou,\u00a0Mr. Ito, finally appeared. As charcoal was lit, he brought out the hot pot, and the much-anticipated Moon Bear Hot Pot was\u00a0finally\u00a0served.\u00a0It was\u00a0already\u00a0stunning\u00a0visually: thinly sliced bear meat arranged\u00a0around\u00a0a large platter. The cut that day was from the back, yet the red meat only made up perhaps only ten percent, while the rest was creamy and\u00a0opaque\u00a0fat, reminiscent even of Spanish acorn-fed Iberico ham. The name \u201cMoon Bear\u201d comes from the V-shaped white marking on the chest of the Asiatic black bear, said to resemble a crescent moon.<\/p>\n

\"\"Chef and Owner of Hirasansou: Ito Takeji<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Alongside the bear meat came a platter of seasonal wild vegetables\u2014leeks, watercress, and mountain celery, all foraged nearby. The broth base was kombu and bonito dashi with soy sauce. \u201cThere\u2019s actually one\u00a0extra\u00a0secret ingredient in the soup,\u201d Mr. Ito\u00a0smiled.

\nAs the broth\u00a0was about to boil, he swished the bear meat in it for less than three seconds, then poured a little broth over it and invited us to taste it plain. The meat tightened slightly after blanching, its marbled fat becoming translucent in the sunlight. Even before tasting, the aroma of meat and fat filled the air.<\/p>\n

It was extraordinary. I had never tasted fat this sweet and clean. If I had to describe it: the lean meat\u00a0resembles\u00a0beef, rich and robust, while the fat\u00a0tastes more like\u00a0pork\u00a0fat\u00a0\u2014 sweet, yet with a bit of crunch. And the more you chew, the more fragrant it becomes, leaving a long, lingering finish. Closing my eyes, I could even sense faint notes of honey and fruit. I had heard friends describe bear meat as elegant and aromatic, but had always been skeptical. Now I could finaly relate.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

With a knowing smile, Mr. Ito revealed the secret: a small amount of honey had\u00a0also\u00a0been added to the broth, allowing the bear meat\u2019s natural honey aroma to meld more seamlessly. Indeed,\u00a0bears\u2019 diet\u2014mountain greens in spring, fruits and insects in summer, nuts, chestnuts, and small fish in autumn and winter\u2014making their meat naturally flavorful. On the other hand, the hunter\u2019s skill is equally important: a precise, fatal shot is necessary to prevent stress-induced off flavors. Such purity and deliciousness are truly hard-won.<\/p>\n

Though bear meat was the star of the hot pot, the vegetables\u00a0aside\u00a0were no less impressive\u2014especially the leeks, whose sweetness genuinely\u00a0impressed\u00a0me. Simmered gently in the broth after the bear meat, they absorbed all the sweetness and umami while retaining their vibrant green color, combined with their own natural juices to create an almost unbelievable sweetness.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

The bear meat was so delicious that the once-full platter disappeared before I realized it, yet it never felt greasy\u2014only leaving me wanting more. Naturally, the broth, now infused with the essence of bear meat and vegetables, was put to good use. Before the\u00a0porridge,\u00a0tochi-mochi\u00a0was served. Unlike ordinary mochi, this light-brown\u00a0rice\u00a0cake is made from glutinous rice mixed with acorn extract, giving it a stickier texture and a pleasantly bitter, aromatic note. Making tochi-mochi is a local New Year and festival tradition, but the labor-intensive process of removing the acorn\u2019s bitterness has led to fewer people making it by hand. As he spoke, the chef\u2019s expression turned faintly concerned.<\/p>\n

The Moon Bear Hot Pot concluded with\u00a0Japanese porridge. Thickened with grated yam, the starch gelatinized and melded into the rich broth, creating a silky texture and deeply sweet, savory flavor.\u00a0Though\u00a0after the tochi-mochi\u00a0we were already much satiated, this\u00a0porridge\u00a0was impossible to resist.<\/p>\n

Dessert, too, exceeded my expectations. Chestnut paste\u00a0topped with persimmon ice cream and persimmon sauce, finished with crispy tochi-mochi senbei. The elements were simple, but the natural sweetness of chestnuts and persimmons was more than enough, capturing yet another snapshot of late autumn.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Founded in 1959, Hirasansou\u00a0is a ryokan dedicated to cuisine, named after its location at the foot of the Hira Mountains. The current owner, Ito Takeji, is the third generation. After graduating from culinary school and having trained in Kyoto, he returned home to take over the family business. Originally a mountain lodge, Hirasansou\u00a0was developed into a culinary inn by the second generation. The current style of \u201cmountainside cuisine\u201d was formally established by Mr. Ito in 1998, and in 2023, Hira Sanso became the only restaurant in Shiga Prefecture to receive a Tabelog Gold Award.<\/p>\n

What is\u00a0\u201cmountainside cuisine\u201d?\u00a0Actually, it aligns perfectly with today\u2019s globally embraced \u201cfarm-to-table\u201d philosophy\u2014emphasizing local sourcing and respect for terroir and seasonality. Surrounded by mountains and water, Hira Sanso draws ingredients primarily from the Hira mountain range, the Ado River, and Lake Biwa. With these abundant resources and Mr. Ito\u2019s mastery of both Shiga regional cuisine and Kyoto-style cooking, the flavors of Shiga\u2019s four seasons are vividly expressed on the table. Winter brings the Moon Bear Hot Pot; spring offers mountain vegetables like hana-sansho and bamboo shoots; summer features ayu sweetfish; and autumn is marked by matsutake season\u2014each reason enough to make a special journey.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Clean and refined,\u00a0Hirasansou\u2019s\u00a0Moon Bear Hot Pot\u00a0was significantly different from the gamey and bold\u00a0bear dishes\u00a0I had before. I once asked several Japanese friends about their favorite foods, and to my surprise, many answered in unison: \u201cbear meat.\u201d After tasting Hira Sanso\u2019s Moon Bear Hot Pot, I finally understand why.<\/p>\n

Author: Patty Chuang
\nPhotos: Patty Chuang<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Traveling a full hour by car\u00a0into the mountains\u00a0from central Kyoto to Hirasansou\u00a0in Shiga Prefecture was all for one reason: the\u00a0Moon Bear Hot Pot, available only in late autumn and winter.

This wasn\u2019t my first time eating bear meat. I had previously encountered it at the French restaurant L\u2019\u00e9vo in Toyama. Its abundant gelatin and deep, savory aroma left a powerful impression on me (earned at the cost of a nearly two-hour drive). That experience made me more eager to try Hirasansou\u2019s\u00a0signature moon\u00a0bear hot pot.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":8055,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[15,118],"class_list":["post-8040","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-food","tag-15","tag-118"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n\u3010\u98df\u8a18\u3011\u6bd4\u826f\u5c71\u838a\uff1a\u5343\u91cc\u8fe2\u8fe2\u4f86\u6ecb\u8cc0\uff0c\u53ea\u70ba\u4e00\u5617\u6708\u718a\u934b - TastyTrip<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/en\/hirasansou-shiga\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta 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