{"id":5274,"date":"2025-09-15T05:15:38","date_gmt":"2025-09-14T21:15:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/?p=5274"},"modified":"2025-09-15T05:46:49","modified_gmt":"2025-09-14T21:46:49","slug":"auberge-eaufeu-komatsu-japan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/en\/auberge-eaufeu-komatsu-japan\/","title":{"rendered":"Contemporary French at a former school: Auberge eaufeu, Japan"},"content":{"rendered":"

If you have ever come to Komatsu in Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan, it was probably just to transfer on your way to Kanazawa nearby. This time, however, I did the opposite \u2014 I took a half-hour train ride from Kanazawa to Komatsu Station, then drove another 20 minutes into the mountains, all for one purpose: Auberge eaufeu. (Directly from Komatsu Airport, it\u2019s about a 30-minute drive.)\u00a0<\/p>\n

@The Japan Times<\/p>\n

Elementary school-reborned Auberge eaufeu, it is surrounded by mountains and greenery. Besides my previous transits through Komatsu Airport, this was my first real visit. Compared to Tokyo\u2019s many members-only restaurants \u2014 where getting a reservation feels like winning the lottery \u2014 I find it far more exciting to discover hidden gems. And eaufeu had long been on my list, especially after it was featured on the list of Destination Restaurants 2025 by The Japan Times.<\/p>\n

In French, eaufeu means \u201cwater and fire.\u201d As I stepped into the restaurant, what first caught my eyes was the long wood counter and the blaze of open flames behind. The dining room preserves the layout of the old elementary school cafeteria: minimalist and modern, in shades of grey and wood, accented by bold, colorful paintings on the walls. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame an endless view of the surrounding nature.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Since French cuisine forms the backbone here, I was expecting the amuse-bouche to be a classic tartlet. Instead, it leaned Japanese: pumpkin somen with eggplant and plum sauce, Muscat grapes, wild boar ham wrapped in shiso leaves. A winter melon carved into the shape of a frog added a touch of whimsy.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Muscat, Boar Ham & Shiso Leaf, Winter Melon<\/p>\n

But the standout was undoubtedly the \u00a0saury sushi. Late summer into fall is when saury is at its fattiest, its translucent layers gleaming under a light charcoal smoke and sear, shimmering like it had been brushed with glitter. The sushi rice \u2014 already seasoned with vinegar \u2014 was mixed with the saury innards, lending a briny depth. The fat\u2019s lusciousness and the rice\u2019s sweetness merged in a single bite: pure umami bliss.<\/p>\n

Saury Sushi<\/p>\n

Speaking of rice, eaufeu sits just five minutes on foot from the well-known Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute. Unsurprisingly, Noguchi\u2019s sake pairs naturally with the menu, and rice in various forms appears throughout the menu. Indeed, another favorite dish of mine \u2014 fried loach, was served with a dipping sauce of amazake, smoked mugwort, and yogurt. The loaches were coated lightly with flour and fried whole until crisp, bones and all. The dip, rich with the tang of yogurt and the sweetness of rice, was irresistible. It reminded me of the tofu-yogurt dip I once had at three-star L\u2019effervescence in Tokyo \u2014 so good I even asked for more portions \u2014 and here at eaufeu, the flavor was just as unforgettable.<\/p>\n

Fried Loach, Amazake Yogurt Sauce<\/p>\n

Next came a series of vegetable-driven plates. A \u201ctrio of okra\u201d stood out: red, green, and white okra charred, then dressed with a stock reduced from vegetable trimmings, brimming with umami. Hard to believe it was vegan. The final flourish \u2014 a drizzle of whey sauce \u2014 emulsified with the vegetable jus, lifting the flavors to another level. My mind jumped to a dish I had not long ago at Sage Gastro in Shanghai: chawanmushi with a mussel whey sauce I couldn\u2019t stop thinking about. Here at eaufeu, that haunting flavor was reborn. I wiped the plate with bread to get every single drop of the sauce.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Okra, Vegetable jus, Whey<\/p>\n

\u201cHmm? Did the kitchen serve you an empty plate? I\u2019ll have to report that,\u201d the manager joked as he passed.<\/p>\n

Then came roasted green bell pepper with barigoule sauce, instantly transporting me to the French Riviera. Traditionally used with artichokes, barigoule is made by saut\u00e9ing shallots, garlic, and thyme in olive oil, then deglazing with white wine and simmering. Here, the chef used tomatoes instead, creating a fruitier version that resembled a Proven\u00e7al ratatouille.<\/p>\n

The \u201ceaufeu maki (wrap)\u201d has been on the menu since the restaurant opened, with its fillings change with seasons. This version featured spiced and grilled minced bear meat, fermented onions, jalape\u00f1os, burdock, all wrapped in a tortilla infused with shrub leaves for a herbal aroma. This wasn\u2019t my first time eating bear, but unlike previous preparations that highlighted its gamey flavor, this one played with acidity, spice, and fermentation. The mix of cuts gave the mince both juiciness and sweetness, while the fermented onions added brightness that cut right through the richness.<\/p>\n

Eaufeu Maki\uff08left\uff09\u3001Green Pepper\uff08right\uff09<\/p>\n

Next came a bowl of venison from Fukui\u2019s Eiheiji, famous for its game. Cooked rare, the lean venison breast was tender and sweet. The clear broth, simmered from venison bones and vegetables, looked unassuming but was packed with concentrated depth.<\/p>\n

Venison<\/p>\n

A waft of buttery pastry announced the arrival of the tomato pie. At first glance a classic French pithivier, it turned out to be a showcase for local fruit tomatoes. The puff pastry, baked golden, shattered with a crisp crack, releasing a filling of bright, plump tomatoes from a local farm. With a mix of herbs and vegetable powder, then paired with Thai green curry sauce where galangal and lemongrass aroma stood out. I later also learned that this farm also sometimes supplies tomatoes to three-star Jo\u00ebl Robuchon in Tokyo.<\/p>\n

Tomato Pie<\/p>\n

For the main course: wild boar loin from Noto with imperial greens. Smoked and grilled, the meat was rosy and tender, its crackling skin crisp, its sauce \u2014 a glossy reduction of boar stock, shallots, and mustard seeds \u2014 deeply savory. I especially loved the tail end cut, which was a perfect balance of fat and lean that has the flavor at its peak.<\/p>\n

Noto Wild Boar Loin<\/p>\n

Dessert brought the much-anticipated fig tart, the season\u2019s highlight. Inside the tart was fig compote, then it was topped with caramelized figs, kaga-boucha (a type of local tea from Ishikawa prefecture) whipped cream, and hojicha ice cream. White figs, which are sweeter and milkier in taste, were torched to beautifully caramelized.The roasted notes of Kaga Boucha tea balanced the sweetness, leaving a long and elegant finish. Each spoonful delivered contrast: crisp and creamy, hot and cold. Full as I was, I couldn\u2019t resist \u2014 the tart vanished in moments.<\/p>\n

Fig Tart & Kaga Boucha<\/p>\n

Eaufeu\u2019s Chef Shota Itoi, born in Kyoto, was just 26 when he won the RED U-35 culinary competition in 2018, the youngest champion in its history. He also worked at L\u2019Auberge de l\u2019Ill in Alsace (then three stars), The French Laundry in California, and was also featured on Forbes Asia\u2019s \u201c30 Under 30\u201d list in 2019. Today, he is one of Japan\u2019s most closely watched young talents.<\/p>\n

Chef Shota Itoi@madamefigaro<\/p>\n

While Ishikawa\u2019s ingredients have long been celebrated, under Chef Itoi\u2019s hand they shine brighter still. In an era when many restaurants make a show of sustainability, here it\u2019s second nature \u2014 close ties with local farmers, careful use of every ingredient, nothing wasted. Chef Itoi builds on that with creativity, his foundation in French cuisine layered with Japanese sensibility and touches from Nordic to Southeast Asian influences, all showcasing the treasures of the land.<\/p>\n

Dining Room<\/p>\n

Before visiting, I mentioned to a few people that I was heading to Komatsu. Nearly all replied, \u201cOh, to eaufeu?\u201d Clearly, the restaurant has already become synonymous with the town. The manager, however, also mentioned: \u201cFor most people, Komatsu is still just a stopover. Sadly, the spotlight always goes to Kanazawa or Toyama.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cDestination restaurant\u201d can indeed be a double-edged sword. One might criticize the carbon footprint of traveling solely for a meal \u2014 as with Norway\u2019s Iris. Yet when a restaurant inspires people to make the journey, the local economy, too, is revitalized. Passing through the quiet, almost slumbering streets of Komatsu on my way back, I understood more the significance of eaufeu\u2019s in this little town.<\/p>\n

Would I come all this way again to Komatsu just for eaufeu? Without hesitation, yes.<\/p>\n

*Postscript: The next morning\u2019s breakfast came packed in a picnic basket, to be enjoyed anywhere \u2014 in the lounge, the dining room, out in the fields, or on the terrace. Abundant, playful, and full of heart, it had been quite a while since I was moved by the hospitality.<\/p>\n

Breakfast Picnic Basket<\/p>\n

Author:Patty Chuang<\/p>\n

Images: Patty Chuang\/madamefigaro\/ The Japan Times<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

If you have ever come to Komatsu in Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan, it was probably just to transfer on your way to Kanazawa nearby. This time, however, I did the opposite \u2014 I took a half-hour train ride from Kanazawa to Komatsu Station, then drove another 20 minutes into the mountains, all for one purpose: Auberge eaufeu. 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