{"id":4866,"date":"2022-07-15T14:14:36","date_gmt":"2022-07-15T06:14:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/?p=4866"},"modified":"2025-08-12T14:32:33","modified_gmt":"2025-08-12T06:32:33","slug":"logy-taipei","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/en\/logy-taipei\/","title":{"rendered":"Savouring a Springtime Ballad at logy Taipei"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Opened in 2018 here in the alleys of Taipei by Hokkaido-born Chef Ryogo Tahara, French\ncuisine restaurant logy is a romantic spin-off from Hiroyasu Kawate\u2019s two-star Michelin restaurant Floril\u00e8ge in Tokyo. With an innate sense of natural ingredients and a persistent search for\nunique Taiwanese flavours, Chef Tahara cooks in an unpretentious way, but his insistence on mastering people\u2019s understanding for good food is self-evident.\nWithin a short span of three years, logy has scooped two Michelin stars and has been ranked Top One among Asia\u2019s 50 Best Restaurants in Taiwan. This time trying logy\u2019s spring menu was a surprisingly\ngreat experience, as I could detect more traces of local elements when its creator incorporates multifaceted techniques from Japan, Italy and France.<\/p>\n<p><iframe title=\"Savouring a Springtime Ballad of Taiwanese Flavours at Logy \u57ce\u5e02\u88e1\u7684\u4e00\u62b9\u6625\u5929, logy \u6625\u5b63\u83dc\u55ae\u66f4\u591a\u53f0\u7063\u5473\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/xN0E3vpT-Sg?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n<div style=\"text-align: center; margin-top: 4px; margin-bottom: 20px;\">@Jocelyn\u83ef\u59d0's TastyTrip YouTube<\/div>\n<p>Like a smooth ballad, the seasonal dishes crafted\nby Chef Tahara were\ninfused with airiness and\ndelicacy. His\nglobetrotting experience and\nattention to detail allow him to\ncapture the key to unlockingirresistible flavour portfolio. The sweet-and-sour-themed spring menu proudly presents\nJapanese-inspired French dishes, offering refined elegance with Taiwanese flair.<\/p>\n<p>The meal started with an amuse bouche of shrimp with mango &amp; passion fruit puree. Visually it was a round caramelized onion meringue that\u2019s meltingly soft,\nsupported by savoury fermented radish\npowder and a sweet and sour blend of shrimp and mango &amp; passion fruit puree underneath. Though\nthe fermented radish powder could have played a\ngreater part, umami still was the main tone to kick start the meal.<\/p>\n<p>Next was fresh Hokkaido scallop. Paired\nwith a sauce made from Aomori apple juice, the dish was tender and flavourful with diced green apple, French caviar and topped off\nwith some fuki (also known as butterbur, a stalk\nvegetable used in Japanese cuisine). One thing specialabout\nthis dish was the ingenious use\nof lavender oil\u00a0\u2013\u00a0fragrant early-summer lavender flourishing\nup on the hills of Hokkaido popped\nup in my mind. Taiwanese people\nlike to eat bitter gourd in summer for its cooling\neffect \u2013 probably why the slightly bitter fuki was used here.<\/p>\n<p>The amadai fish was fried to perfect crunchiness and readiness\nwith a tender and fatty center, and served with crisp, slightly acid Belgian\nwhite asparagus to strike a balanced mouthfeel. Apart from clam juice, white\nwine and butter, the sauce also featured Kyoto white miso for a whiff of thickness\nand Japanese touch. The ability to balance different ingredients is a common\ntrait among talented chefs. For this dish, Tahara specially brought in milder Japanese\nyellow mustard as an optional dip to add acidity. Personally I prefer the fish\nwithout the dip.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/log.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1620\" \/>Deep-Fried Tilefish<\/p>\n<p>A signature interpretation of Taiwanese flavours by Chef Tahara,\nthe Chawamushi was topped with crab meat and cooked with beef broth and dried\nsquid, accompanied with a dollop of Angelica ice cream for a medicinal touch. The\njuxtaposition of temperatures and textures made for an unforgettable dish that\nwas pure, vital delight. Eating Tahara's dishes sometimes makes you think, \u201cHow\ncan they not taste good?\u201d His talent for creating and combining new culinary\npossibilities is evident.<\/p>\n<p>Exuberant of colourful and floral\npleasures, the tart dish had a base of sweet peas, onion, bacon and green\nasparagus, with layers of roasted brussels sprout, rose petal, pansy, oxali and\nmustardy nasturtium, and shaved 36-month-aged parmesan on top. The dish was similar\nto a French quiche, with a warm bottom layer, except the sauce was replaced\nwith the lighter hollandaise. If I must nitpick, I\nprefer raw sweet peas to cooked ones, since the latter is a result of compromise\nmade with the market. The pairing wine was a Gew\u00fcrztraminer white wine from South\nIsland, New Zealand, complementing the dish with its heady aromatics and balanced acidity.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/log1.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1620\" \/>Chawanmushi<\/p>\n<p>Moving on to Tahara's signature dish, the bonito with rice\nfeatured straw-seared Hualien bonito and creamy risotto made with Taiwanese sticky\nrice, hazelnuts, mushroom stock and coffee oil. Bonito is a returning fish\nspecies that travels up north on the Pacific coast side of Japan with the\nnutrient-rich Kuroshio Current in early summer. Young\nbonitos at this point are typically made into seared sashimi at restaurants in\nJapan, when the aroma of smoke from burning straws brings out the umami flavour\nin bonito. The east coast of Taiwan is also home to schools of quality bonito\nwith delicate meat and logy\u2019s handling of the smoking process was accurate. The\ndish is reflective of Tahara\u2019s Italian experience and Japanese roots: the local\nsticky rice was flavoured with higher acidity and enriched by perfectly smoked bonito,\nexotic coffee oil and some nutty notes. You could say it\u2019s a Japanese-inspired\nItalian cuisine or vice versa.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/log2.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1620\" \/>Bonito<\/p>\n<p>Dutch veal ribeye was wrapped in caul fat and coupled with two\nkinds of sauce, one made of beef knee sauce, saffron and coriander seeds, the\nother being creamy beef bone marrow sauce. It was served with cardamom puree,\nspring bamboo shoots, parsley oil bread crumb, and Japanese kinome leaves. Eating\nbamboo shoots is also common in Kyoto, while Chef Tahara prefers Taiwanese\nspring bamboo shoots as they are sweeter and less astringent. The bamboo shoots\nserved here were handled with excellent heat control. The veal, bone marrow,\nand bread crumb were a deconstructed version of Veal Milanese. It seems that\nItalian cuisine has had a greater impact on Chef Tahara than French cuisine. Personally\nI would choose more intense meat dishes over veal, but\nof course this dish was outstanding both in terms of craftsmanship and quality\nof ingredients.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/log3.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1620\" \/>Veal<\/p>\n<p>Decorated with golden berry jam, calendula petals and oriental\nbeauty jelly, seasonal loquat was soaked in a cold soup made from IPA beer and bay leaves, boasting a pure and elegant taste. Serving\nthis one at a Japanese restaurant would not be inharmonious at all. Another\ndessert \u2013 Sakura \u2013 used salted cherry blossom ice cream made with creamy Panna\nCotta and mascarpone cheese. Full of Italian vibe! It was the first time I tried\na cherry blossom pastry with a filling of red bean and salted cherry blossoms.\nA quite strong blend of sour and salty taste but not overwhelming, much lighter\nthan I expected. The meal ended with a distinctly Taiwanese dessert of aiyu\njelly, similar to the role of matcha in Japanese food,\na refreshing yet satisfying final touch.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/log4.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1620\" \/>Loquat<\/p>\n<p>\u201cRefreshed\u201d was the word when I finished my meal. Grew up in a\nrural area of Hokkaido with only 2,000 residents, Tahara developed strong\ninterest in cooking and natural ingredients. At the age of 19, he entered a culinary\nschool and later worked in an Italian restaurant in Sapporo. Many senior chefs\nthere went to Italy to pursue further studies, so Tahara moved to Italy to hone\nhis skills as well. Chasing after dreams and aspirations in life is a universal\nthing, regardless of who you are and where you are from. Japanese chefs are\nnormally welcomed in French and Italian kitchens, because if diners see a\nJapanese chef in the kitchen, there is implicit reassurance that their meal\nwouldn\u2019t go wrong.<\/p>\n<p>In Italy, Chef Tahara set off on a three-and-a-half-year journey\nworking at Michelin-starred restaurants including La Ciau del Tornavento and La\nTorre del Saracino. In 2015, he returned to Japan to join Floril\u00e8ge and became\nHiroyasu Kawate\u2019s right-hand man. Inheriting bold spirits and solid skills,\nTahara went to head up logy with an aim to honour the terroir of Taiwan and the\nflavours of Asia.<\/p>\n<p>Logy's menu is not long, but it's packed with brilliant dishes\nthat do not sit heavy in your stomach. It\u2019s the kind of perfect status when you\nfinish a meal, not the kind when you have to squeeze in 20-some courses at some\nthree-starred restaurants. Besides, Michelin Star ratings are determined based\non a range of strict criteria, of which the length of menu is not particularly\nhigh on the chart.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/log5.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1620\" \/>Jocelyn\u83ef\u59d0(left)\/Chef Tahara(right)<\/p>\n<p>Much like the suffix -\u00a0logy which conjures ideas of study and\ntheory, Chef Tahara is also a keen researcher of culinary arts. Over the past\nthree years, he has travelled around Taiwan many times to dig into local\ningredients, and it is through his dishes that he expresses more confidence in\nusing local elements and feels more comfortable with being himself.<\/p>\n<p>For Tahara, having earned two Michelin stars does not qualify for an excuse to slow\ndown. At 39, he still\nholds himself to very high standards and makes sure he continues to explore more Taiwanese ingredients and fermented foods, delving\ninto the philosophy of balance witha\nnon-stop craving for knowledge and learning.<\/p>\n<p>Author: Jocelyn \u83ef\u59d0<br \/>\nPhotos\/ Vidoeo: Jocelyn \u83ef\u59d0<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center; margin-top: 30px;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/image-22.png\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"width: 100%; height: auto;\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/image-22.png\" alt=\"\" \/><br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Opened in 2018 here in the alleys of Taipei by Hokkaido-born Chef Ryogo Tahara, French\ncuisine restaurant logy is a romantic spin-off from Hiroyasu Kawate\u2019s two-star Michelin restaurant Floril\u00e8ge in Tokyo. With an innate sense of natural ingredients and a persistent search for\nunique Taiwanese flavours, Chef Tahara cooks in an unpretentious way, but his insistence on mastering people\u2019s understanding for good food is self-evident.\nWithin a short span of three years, logy has scooped two Michelin stars and has been ranked Top One among Asia\u2019s 50 Best Restaurants in Taiwan. This time trying logy\u2019s spring menu was a surprisingly\ngreat experience, as I could detect more traces of local elements when its creator incorporates multifaceted techniques from Japan, Italy and France.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":4872,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[106,3],"tags":[78,38,43],"class_list":["post-4866","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-106","category-food","tag-78","tag-38","tag-43"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v25.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>\u3010Jocelyn\u5c08\u6b04\u3011\u53f0\u5317\u7684\u4e00\u62b9\u6625\u5929 logy\u6625\u5b63\u83dc\u55ae\u66f4\u591a\u53f0\u7063\u5473 - TastyTrip<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, 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