{"id":4662,"date":"2023-02-17T10:32:59","date_gmt":"2023-02-17T02:32:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/?p=4662"},"modified":"2025-08-08T11:36:50","modified_gmt":"2025-08-08T03:36:50","slug":"jl-studio-taichung","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/en\/jl-studio-taichung\/","title":{"rendered":"JL STUDIO: Splashing Delicious Southeast Asian Colours"},"content":{"rendered":"

At the Michelin two-starred modern Singaporean restaurant JL STUDIO in Taichung, Singaporean Chef Jimmy Lim Tyan Yaw has re-imagined\u00a0traditional South-East\u00a0Asian cuisine with unique flair and a deep desire. Having been refining his approach to traditional cuisine, Jimmy\u2019s colourful but unconventional dishes are a delightful departure from cooking\u2019s new minimalism.<\/p>\n

This was my second visit to JL;\u00a0the\u00a0first time was three years ago, before Covid. The restaurant is on the second floor of a two-storey complex.\u00a0It\u2019s a pity that the main entrance is shared with the restaurant on the first floor, which is also owned by the same\u00a0investment group.\u00a0Immediately after\u00a0entering the restaurant, I walked past an open kitchen where the kitchen staff\u00a0were grilling with\u00a0open fire. The interior has more South-East\u00a0Asian elements after\u00a0renovation\u00a0and the service is warm and laid-back.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Chef Lim hopes to share the inclusivity and harmony of Singaporean cuisine with diners. He describes Singaporean cuisine as \"a vibrant melting pot of flavours influenced by different cultures, people\u00a0and religions, yet very harmonious and unique\".<\/p>\n

The cooking techniques were evident but understanding the origins of each dish was a challenge\u00a0for me due to lack of knowledge of Singaporean cuisine. Luckily, through Chef Lim\u2019s interpretation, I was able to experience a beautiful choir of traditional South-East\u00a0Asian flavours.<\/p>\n

The traditional food of Singapore uses a variety of spices and seasonings. JL STUDIO's dishes offer an authentic view of Chef\u2019s hometown cuisine recomposed with creativity and aesthetics. The show began with very eye-catching appetizers.\u00a0<\/p>\n

The Kueh Pie Tee was presented as\u00a0two thin crunchy crisps\u00a0sandwiching\u00a0tender\u00a0rose shrimp and vegetables in oyster sauce -- A delicacy that instantly wins your heart. The Rojak was\u00a0a sweet and sour\u00a0bite-size\u00a0tart with cucumber. The Rose Kueh had a cookie\u00a0made from rice flour and egg, garnished by edamame beans and pandan\u00a0leaf juice to add a tinge of green. These are all common\u00a0snacks\u00a0in Singapore and Malaysia, but the Chef has incorporated French techniques to add complexity and elegance.<\/p>\n

\"\"Kueh\u00a0Pie Tee |\u00a0Rojak <\/p>\n

The Rasam (a spicy and tangy South Indian soup) is traditionally made with tamarind and common spices in India such as cumin, chilli powder and turmeric.\u00a0The cherry tomato and vegetable soup was served in the form of a jelly placed at the bottom of a wide-mouthed champagne glass. Other ingredients included water bamboo and tuna, which brought a sense of richness to the dish while also tasted refreshing and appetising.<\/p>\n

Lo Hei (sashimi) is a traditional New Year's Eve dish in Singapore, which carries implication of growth and prosperity. The dish usually features slices of sashimi, shredded vegetables and crunchy peanuts for extra texture, all tossed together before serving. At JL STUDIO, the main ingredients are swordfish, yuzu and sesame, with raw fish being topped with green spinach crisps, as if they were two carp fish swimming at ease. Vegetables and fried fish skin were wrapped inside of a transparent sugar ball, which was crashed into the plate to form the whole picture with the sashimi. It was a breakaway from the traditional Lo Hei, bursting with a variety of delightful flavours, textures and playful childhood memories.<\/p>\n

The Shroom Kut Teh took inspiration from bak kut teh, a meat dish cooked in broth. Gongliao abalone and Xingse shiitake\u00a0were used instead of meat, and the purpose of using aiyu was to mimic the texture of gelatin, which is a healthier\u00a0alternative. Traditionally-served\u00a0fried dough sticks\u00a0were replaced with shredded burdock, which also gave it a crunchy texture. It\u2019s hard not to be impressed by the flavours exuding from the dish,\u00a0since it was\u00a0so touching and nostalgic.<\/p>\n

\"\"Shroom Kut Teh<\/p>\n

Traditionally served steamed or grilled, Otak-otak is a South-East\u00a0Asian fish cake made of ground fish mixed with spices and wrapped in banana leaf or atap leaf parcels. Chef reinterpreted the dish using Maine lobster, orange and cucumber, wrapped in banana leaves and sizzled to bring out the aroma of the leaves. The lobster was cooked perfectly. Again, childhood memory was the theme of the dish.<\/p>\n

Assam Babi is pork belly or pork shoulder in tamarind sauce. It is another South-East\u00a0Asian dish with a rich, fragrant flavour and a spicy kick. Chef recreated the dish using Iberian pork, pickled pumpkin and a satay-style vegetable stew. Jimmy said that meat is normally used in satay dish, but here he chooses zucchini, tofu and pineapple, which is more like a satay-style ratatouille. He also replaced peanut sauce with grilled pistachio sauce to make it lighter.<\/p>\n

\"\"Assam Babi<\/p>\n

Before dessert, Jimmy surprised us by presenting a Sambal Tempoyak dish (rice with durian and fermented chilli sauce), served with coconut milk and sakura shrimp. The addition of the rich and creamy seared foie gras was a stroke of genius. The slight aroma of durian allowed for good appetite even for those who do not particularly fancy durian. It was a beautifully presented dish, surprisingly contrasting and yet harmonious.<\/p>\n

Chef\u00a0Lim is very good at\u00a0deconstructing traditional dishes and reconstructing\u00a0different elements\u00a0to create new forms.\u00a0For example, the famous Singaporean breakfast\u00a0combo (eggs, kaya\u00a0toast and coffee) is transformed here. The Yaw Kun Kopi Tiam came with a basket of \u201ceggs\u201d, but were actually made of frozen kaya, burnt toast in the middle and coffee powder sprinkled on top. It had everything you need and everything you saw was edible.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n


\n<\/div>\n
Sambal Tempoyak\/Yaw Kun Kopi Tiam<\/div>\n

Next up was a dessert named using the geographic coordinates of Singapore's landmark \u2013 the Merlion. It was decorated with coconut, jackfruit and calamansi in the shape of the Merlion, paying homage to Chef Lim\u2019s homeland. The final dessert Bandung was inspired by the popular Southeast Asian rose milk tea, adjusted to make into an ice cream with atap seeds added inside to give it a different mouthfeel. It\u2019s finally covered with white chocolate and sprinkled with rose petals.\u00a0Wonderfully aromatic and refreshing.<\/p>\n

On what it means for JL STUDIO to recreate traditional Singaporean cuisine, Jimmy says, \u201cSingaporean food is being re-imagined into unexplored territory, with the hope that the flavours revolutionised will suit modern tastebuds\u00a0so that people will be able to understand and enjoy Singaporean food more.\u201d<\/p>\n

Jimmy has the ability to orchestrate\u00a0traditional flavours with bold and stylish colours from South-East\u00a0Asian culture. His dishes are\u00a0vibrant, complete and personal, a loud and clear endeavour to carve his own arena instead of following the trend of Nordic minimalism in today\u2019s fine-dining industry.<\/p>\n

JL STUDIO has continued to refine itself since it opened, and I have certainly felt the transformation each time. Many people thought that the location in Taichung would be a disadvantage,\u00a0but now\u00a0it seems that JL is well on the way to\u00a0make\u00a0Taichung into the next gourmet\u00a0destination.<\/p>\n

Two Michelin stars is just a\u00a0start. I\u00a0believe with the recovery of global traveling, JL is to welcome more overseas guests\u00a0for sure.<\/p>\n

Author: Jocelyn \u83ef\u59d0
\nPhoto: Jocelyn \u83ef\u59d0\/instagram<\/p>\n


\n\"\"
\n<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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