{"id":4510,"date":"2023-02-03T00:30:24","date_gmt":"2023-02-02T16:30:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/?p=4510"},"modified":"2025-08-17T10:39:18","modified_gmt":"2025-08-17T02:39:18","slug":"hiroyasu-kawate-florilege-tokyo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/en\/hiroyasu-kawate-florilege-tokyo\/","title":{"rendered":"Floril\u00e8ge: Where Hiroyasu Kawate Practices Food Sustainability"},"content":{"rendered":"

I have known Chef Hiroyasu\nKawate of Michelin two-starred restaurant Floril\u00e8ge in Tokyo for many years. He\nis a champion of nature and connects his cuisine with it; even \u201cFloril\u00e8ge\u201d\nmeans a collection of beautiful poems like flowers. He is a master of using a\nsingle ingredient in a variety of ways, fusing simplicity with sophistication,\nand intuitively applying delicious flavour combinations to bring out the best\nin each ingredient.<\/p>\n

Born into a culinary family in Tokyo, Kawate always had his sights set on being a chef. After working at a French restaurant in Tokyo and training at the three-starred French restaurant Le Jardin des Sens, he returned to Tokyo and worked at the three-starred Quintessence, where he became sous chef two years later and founded Floril\u00e8ge in 2009 when he was under 30.<\/p>\n

\n
\n \n<\/div>\n
Floril\u00e8ge<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

In 2019, I invited Kawate to\nShanghai for a collaboration event. He might seem cool and dignified, but during\nthe collaboration I found he is actually a coordinated, funny and warm person. When\nDen won the first place on Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 2022 list, it was a\ntouching sight to see him and his long-time friend Chef Zaiyu Hasegawa embracing\neach other as they barely managed to keep the tears in check on the ceremony.<\/p>\n

\n \"\"Jocelyn\u83ef\u59d0&Chef\u00a0Hiroyasu Kawate\u00a0<\/p>\n

Kawate is clear in his goals and\nbold in his approach, especially in the early focus on sustainability before\nthe market took it as a trend. His signature 'sustainability beef' carpaccio is\ntaken from the meat of mature, 13-year-old breeding cows from Takasaki, which\nwas an avant-garde dish at the time. Now Kawate's pursuit of sustainability is\neven more evident.<\/p>\n

Not the first of its kind in\nJapan, Floril\u00e8ge is an intimate experience set around a counter where the chefs\ncook everything right in front of the guest, with full attention to detail to\nprovide top-notch hospitality. The space is far more spacious than it looks in\nthe photos. It is a theatrical ringside setting where the chef is the star of\nthe show.<\/p>\n

After three years of Covid, I\nvisited Floril\u00e8ge again and was delighted to experience its refined use of all\nparts of the ingredients and bolder designs of the different possibilities of\nthe same ingredient. There was also another pleasant surprise: the chef who\nexplained the dishes to me is from Harbin in China. His name is Zhao Bohan and has\nbeen in Tokyo for seven years. He worked at Floril\u00e8ge for two and a half years\nafter studying at a local culinary school. He was able to give more detailed\nanswer in Chinese when I asked specific questions. It was a brilliant and happy\nexperience \u2013 listening to food illustration in Chinese at a French restaurant\nin Tokyo.<\/p>\n

First was a classic sweet potato\ndish. Green tea leaves were smoked under cherry wood to pair with the purple\nyam and golden sweet potato reconstituted and deep fried. This has been the\nopening item on the menu since I\u2019ve known the Chef. Simple but delicious.<\/p>\n

Next up was a shrimp dish. On a\nbed of biscuit layered with a shrimp sauce made from chopped sweet shrimp, spot\nprawn and Ise lobster; cauliflower mousse; topped with shrimp shell consomm\u00e9\nand paired with caviar sauce (more like a side dish) and wasabi oil for a milder\nand refreshing taste. The result was a delightful combination of all the wonderful\nflavours of the shrimps.<\/p>\n

\n \"\"Potato Dish@cellianhu_Instagram<\/p>\n

\n \"\"Shrimp Dish<\/p>\n

The sardine dish was served with\nthin slices of pear, pickled ginger, seaweed and oba leaf (green shiso),\noverlaid with a ginger and cream jelly, accompanied by black garlic, balsamic\nvinegar, and oba oil. The ginger sauce itself is a classic pairing with\nsardines, but the rendition here was milder in taste with a harmonious balance\nof all the ingredients. The side dish was a savoury-sweet pancake with its\ncrust made from orange juice and oil, and a mousse filling made of sardine bone\nbroth and Japanese yuzu. This dish again utilised all parts of the ingredients.<\/p>\n

The turnip, which is often found\nin Japanese cuisine, was also presented in a variety of ways here. Shioyaki (salt-grilled)\nKyoto turnip was made into a mousse, mixed with oba leaves, tarragon, and umami-rich\nmullet roe puree, topped with turnip mousse and cream, and finished with a\ndrizzle of orange zest oil. It is interesting to note that pairing mullet roe\nwith turnip is also quite commonly seen in Chinese cuisine.<\/p>\n

\n \"\"Sardine\u00a0Dish<\/p>\n

The carrot dish was pretty\nimpressive in presenting varied facets of a single ingredient. The carrot\npastry was covered with carrot puree, carrot slices and leaves, topped with\nfried carrot leaves and sided by curry sauce and curry oil. Under the flower\nthere was also a carrot salad mixed with orange juice, a classic accompaniment\nto carrot cake. The carrots were deliciously sweet and the pie crust was crispy\nand satisfying. If not curry-flavoured, the dish would constitute a nice dessert\nas well.<\/p>\n

Another dish was aubergine\nbisque with a cheese rice cake in the middle and drizzled with vanilla oil to\ngive it a rich, creamy and dashi flavour. The side dish was \u2018aubergine\ndumpling\u2019, the wrapping made of fried and pureed aubergine skin before being\nflattened and dried to form a purple sheet; the filling made of aubergine flesh.\nAnother whole-veg dish. All the vegetable dishes here are wonderfully handled\nto yield a rich tapestry of rich flavours.<\/p>\n

\n \"\"Carrot Dish<\/p>\n

\n \"\"Aubergine Dish<\/p>\n

The main course guinea fowl was\nthe only meat dish, coupled with a sauce of chopped spinach, onion and cream,\nlayered with saut\u00e9ed spinach and topped with dried spinach powder. A special\ningredient \u2013 pig\u2019s blood \u2013 was present in the sauce. It can be unfamiliar to some\nwestern countries, except, of course, in regions where blood sausages are consumed.\nHere it\u2019s used to showcase the beauty of using ingredients to their fullest.\nFloril\u00e8ge's poultry dishes are always perfectly cooked, and the spinach puree\nwas even more delicate and complex.<\/p>\n

The dessert apple pie had\npaper-thin slices of candied apples on top and tasted light and delicious. Another\nchocolate dessert was layered mousse and jelly powered with liquid nitrogen-treated\ncheese, quite like Ludagun (fried chop rice cake, traditional Manchu snack in\nChina). The meal ended, as always, with sweet goldenberries.<\/p>\n

\n \"\"Guinea Fowl<\/p>\n

\n \"\"Apple Pie<\/p>\n

Dishes at Floril\u00e8ge have been\nnicely priced at under 10,000 yen for lunch and just over 10,000 yen for dinner.\nYou may wonder how the restaurant can sustain the business at such prices.\nPerhaps the use of all parts of ingredients is one of the cost-cutting\nstrategies, but it also costs a lot of time and effort to present a single\ningredient in so many different ways. Floril\u00e8ge has earned a Michelin Green\nStar for its sustainability endeavour.<\/p>\n

Over the years, Kawate's dishes\nhave been light but not bland, exuding elegance and oriental aesthetics. The\nmenu now has a high proportion of vegetables prepared in a luscious and tasty\nway, not at all like harsh-to-eat diet salads. Plating may not be the most\nimportant focus at Floril\u00e8ge, but what harm can it cause?<\/p>\n

Using sustainable ingredients\nand reducing food waste where possible, Kawate has translated the idea of fusing\nsustainability and gastronomy into practice.<\/p>\n

Author: Jocelyn \u83ef\u59d0
\n Photo: Jocelyn \u83ef\u59d0\/instagram<\/p>\n

\n
\n \"\"
\n <\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I have known Chef Hiroyasu\nKawate of Michelin two-starred restaurant Floril\u00e8ge in Tokyo for many years. He\nis a champion of nature and connects his cuisine with it; even \u201cFloril\u00e8ge\u201d\nmeans a collection of beautiful poems like flowers. He is a master of using a\nsingle ingredient in a variety of ways, fusing simplicity with sophistication,\nand intuitively applying delicious flavour combinations to bring out the best\nin each ingredient.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":4513,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[86,3],"tags":[89,15,72,38,43],"class_list":["post-4510","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-86","category-food","tag-89","tag-15","tag-72","tag-38","tag-43"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n\u3010Jocelyn\u5c08\u6b04\u3011\u6771\u4eac\u5169\u661fFloril\u00e8ge \u8cb4\u516c\u5b50\u5ddd\u624b\u5bec\u5eb7\u7684\u6c38\u7e8c\u5168\u98df\u6750\u5229\u7528 - TastyTrip<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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