{"id":4492,"date":"2023-03-03T23:47:23","date_gmt":"2023-03-03T15:47:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/?p=4492"},"modified":"2025-08-02T23:56:07","modified_gmt":"2025-08-02T15:56:07","slug":"esquisse-tokyo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/en\/esquisse-tokyo\/","title":{"rendered":"A Talk with Lionel Beccat at Esquisse Tokyo"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Coming to Japan was not part of the plan,\" says Chef Lionel Beccat\u00a0at the French restaurant Esquisse in Tokyo. Chef Beccat was born in Corsica but moved to Marseille with his family at the age of four. As a major port on the Mediterranean coast,\u00a0the city of Marseille\u00a0is a fascinating multi-cultural melting pot in its own right. \"Marseille defines who I am,\"\u00a0he says, with a calm, slightly melancholic temperament but his eyes shining stars of wisdom.<\/p>\n

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Beccat was the second chef when he was working at the three-starred\u00a0La Maison Troisgros in France. During the five years there,\u00a0Chef Michel Troisgros trusted him for his professionalism and his sense for food. Later on, Troisgros recommended him to\u00a0work at another three-starred\u00a0restaurant Daniel Boulud in New York.\u00a0Like many young people eager to chase the American Dream, Beccat\u00a0had opportunities to go to New York and San Francisco and was excited to continue pursuing his professional career in either one of the metropolises. In 2006, Michel Troisgros decided to open his first overseas branch in Tokyo, asking Beccat to run the new restaurant. \u201cI was given 24 hours to think,\u201d Beccat recalls. He rose to the challenge and went to Tokyo.<\/p>\n

It was only when he decided to open Esquisse that he realised it might be much simpler to be a chef working at a well-established, Michelin-starred French restaurant. Freedom is empowering, but it also makes people lost. He decided not to use any of Troisgros' recipes. It took him two years\u00a0of trial and error\u00a0to figure everything\u00a0out, but\u00a0the\u00a0fire burning in his heart eventually helped him find his own style.<\/p>\n

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\n \n<\/div>\n
@esquisse_tokyo_instagram\/@Esquisse.com<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

\"Now if I look back, Japan changed the way I looked at the world,\" he says. Many Japanese philosophies like\u00a0wabi-sabi, have taught him to see the development of things on a different level, to appreciate\u00a0beauty and meaning in life.\u00a0In his book he writes about the driving force behind each dish instead of cooking techniques, because he believes that everyone is different and cannot be easily defined by others. He also shares the process that inspires each of his creations in the hope that it will help people find their own path.<\/p>\n

\n \"\"langoustine | cidre | egoma<\/p>\n

Beccat\u00a0says Japan changed his ability to listen,\u00a0allowing his sensory radar to better capture what\u2019s said and what\u2019s left unsaid,\u00a0and to discover the beauty of silence\u00a0when living with a culture emphasizing subtlety\u00a0in conversations.\u00a0He is willing to teach all the techniques to his students, but finding out why these are important is the thing they need to figure out themselves.<\/p>\n

His confidence comes from knowing who he is, what he is doing, what he is capable of, and affirming his desire to serve others. He thinks there is no need to cling to what has been lost, rather, be grateful for what is left behind and not to be too dependent on particular people or things. Keeping an open mind is the key to personal growth.<\/p>\n

Apart from his background and Japanese philosophy, photography also plays a great part in shaping his style of cooking. Beccat believes that cooking and photography are the same - they both require skill, vision, materials, awareness, feeling, passion, and luck. The only difference is that photography stays forever, but food will vanish. He does not see photography or\u00a0cooking as art; both are craft. People decide if it\u2019s art or not. For Beccat, photography and cooking interact with him and strengthen the ties with the world people live in. He says doing photography allows him to return to himself and regain control of things.<\/p>\n

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Lionel Beccat's photographic works@lionel_beccat_instagram<\/div>\n

In Beccat\u2019s mind, all experiences are a process, not an answer. If someone said his dishes are Japanese cuisine then he would\u00a0just accept\u00a0that, because he doesn't know what his cuisine is and he doesn't want to know.\u00a0Everyone has their own answer.<\/p>\n

The evolution is fully reflected in his menu. \u201cMental gymnastics keeps you fit and always aware of new things,\u201d he says. With constant stream of artistic inspiration, he hardly ever makes the same dish. After six weeks, the menu will be brand new again. I asked him if he could name three dishes that he keeps\u00a0on the menu.\u00a0<\/p>\n

One of the three is a cheese dish \u2013 Taste is Word \u2013 made with kombu, mascarpone, Comt\u00e9, truffle and sake. The blank\u00a0space\u00a0in plating gives a sense of tranquillity, as if watching the Moon and the Earth living in symbiosis in the universe.<\/p>\n

Beccat says he was forced to keep this dish at the request of the guests because it is easily taken as a cheating dish. It\u2019s easy to jump in on a popular trend. \u201cEveryone can cook\u00a0strong flavours, but real taste has to be\u00a0natural,\u201d he states.<\/p>\n

\n \"\"TASTE\u00a0IS\u00a0WORD@esquisse_tokyo_instagram<\/p>\n

Peace of Mind was created during the initial outbreak of covid. \u201cFear of doing too much or not enough, fear of being judged, fear of being misunderstood. Three months away from cooking taught me that the real fear, the absolute anguish, is not able to cook again. So since then I\u2019ve done absolutely anything I want to do. I\u2019ve wanted to make it for years but didn\u2019t dare, a tomato pie.\u201d\u00a0The ingredients are organic cherry tomatoes marinated in mustard oil, fennel seed paste, pissalat, goat cream, candied red peppers, tomato water, Barolo aged vinegar and herbs. It looks simple but requires complex process and is very time-consuming.<\/p>\n

Eurythmy\u00a0of Living is a fish dish. It means right and harmonious movement or happy and balanced arrangement, often used to describe the beauty of a dancer\u2019s gesture or the energy of the light in photography or painting. This dish depicts the energetic harmony of spring that wraps us and pays tribute to the living by including the sensation of movements.\u00a0It features sawara lacto-fermented in bergamot sour milk, broad beans puree, pine gable tahina, brined cucumber, fresh green peas with parsley oil, burrata, shell bouillon and bergamot paste as a sauce.<\/p>\n

It has been three years since I last visited. The February menu is absolutely a stunning masterpiece. The first dish starts with shredded green apple and wasabi leaves wrapped in halibut\u00a0aged for 4 days. It was a real treat for the palate, like a symphony exuding Japanese elegance and French flair. The main course \u2013\u00a0amadai\u00a0is steamed to reduce rawness, retaining its freshness and tender texture. The sauce is made from fish stock with a touch of bergamot butter to give it some power, further garnished by the slightly bitter\u00a0fuki in spring. Respecting the original flavour is\u00a0a perfect way to describe the dish. The duck is tender, precisely cooked to produce a toffee-coloured crispy skin that cracks into caramelized shards. The red wine sauce is bright and not too heavy, served with aromatically seared parsnip.\u00a0Delicious and elegant.<\/p>\n

\n \"\"amadai |\u00a0fukinoto |\u00a0bergamote<\/p>\n

\n \"\"canard |\u00a0panais |\u00a0vin rouge<\/p>\n

Esquisse, meaning \u201csketch\u201d in French, is more than a name. An artistic theme runs throughout Esquisse, from the bright and airy decor through to the elegant presentation that seems to bear the poetic come and go of things.<\/p>\n

Opened in Tokyo\u2019s luxury Ginza district in 2012, Esquisse was awarded two Michelin stars five months after opening. Deeply influenced by Japanese philosophy, Lionel Beccat\u2019s cooking is about changing the way of thinking and creative growth, leaving guests to define his dishes. For me, Esquisse is undoubtedly one of the iconic restaurants to visit in Tokyo.<\/p>\n

Author: Jocelyn \u83ef\u59d0
\n Photo: Jocelyn \u83ef\u59d0\/instagram<\/p>\n

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\n <\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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