{"id":2996,"date":"2024-07-13T10:55:04","date_gmt":"2024-07-13T02:55:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/?p=2996"},"modified":"2025-06-05T13:22:03","modified_gmt":"2025-06-05T05:22:03","slug":"noma-copenhagen","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/en\/noma-copenhagen\/","title":{"rendered":"Not the Last Ocean Season: noma's Closure and Its Impact on Copenhagen"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The most influential restaurant of this generation, noma, has been named the best restaurant in the world five times, changing the global perception of Nordic cuisine. Since its opening in 2003, after more than 20 years, it announced it would cease public operations at its peak and transition to a new model, which is regrettable. As the seafood season approaches, I have been looking forward to this for a long time.<\/p>\n<p><iframe title=\"\u672a\u4f86\u9084\u5403\u5f97\u5230\u300c\u4e16\u754c\u7b2c\u4e00\u9910\u5ef3\u300d\u55ce\uff1f\u54e5\u672c\u54c8\u6839\u9910\u5ef3\u300cnoma \u6d77\u9bae\u5b63\u83dc\u55ae\u300dnoma ocean season\uff01\u8d85\u5927\u6d77\u87af\u8766\ud83e\udd9e\u3001\u9c48\u9b5a\u76db\u5bb4\ud83d\udc1f\u3001 \u507d\u751f\u8814\u51b0\u6dc7\u6dcb\ud83e\uddaa \u6eff\u6eff\u7684\u9bae\u5473\uff01\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/BK5sdv-7cwo?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">@Jocelyn\u83ef\u59d0's TastyTrip YouTube<\/p>\n<p>noma\u00a02.0 is located in the Christianshavn neighborhood of Copenhagen, Denmark, between two lakes. It is built on a preserved former military warehouse site, surrounded by water and greenery, providing a very tranquil, relaxing, and comfortable environment. Since\u00a0noma\u00a0moved here in 2018, significant investment\u00a0has been put into it, and just seven years later, the announcement of its transition seems like a seven-year itch, possibly reflecting the restless soul of Ren\u00e9 Redzepi.<\/p>\n<p>The restaurant's open kitchen, glass-covered walkways, and multiple greenhouses allow one to feel the changes in seasons and weather at any time. During this visit to Copenhagen, I stayed for nearly two weeks with daily sunshine. Through its nature-embracing interior design, I deeply experienced the\u00a0philosophy of seasonal cuisine, and the beauty of light and shadow made the experience even more impressive.<\/p>\n<p><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-3000 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/3.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1441\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/3.png 1080w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/3-225x300.png 225w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/3-767x1024.png 767w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/3-768x1025.png 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/3-9x12.png 9w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>noma's\u00a0Ocean\u00a0Season is renowned for its innovative cooking techniques and unique ingredient choices and is the most celebrated of\u00a0noma's three seasons (Ocean, Vegetable, and Game). Each time entering the kitchen, I was warmly welcomed by the\u00a0noma\u00a0team, feeling their energy and passion, unchanged year after year. I remember my first visit in 2016, the intense masculine energy was a bit overwhelming (laughs).<\/p>\n<p>This year's menu was no exception, offering a unique culinary feast. Starting unconventionally, the first course was\u00a0whole-cooked\u00a0langoustine,\u00a0with claws dusted with\u00a0saffron\u00a0powder, served with mussel\u00a0broth\u00a0and\u00a0bergamot. The langoustine\u00a0was surrounded by a powder of\u00a0seaweed\u00a0and pine, bringing rich ocean flavors. Serving my favorite dish right at the start was perfect, allowing me to enjoy it first and then slowly savor other dishes.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-3002 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/5.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1398\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/5.png 1080w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/5-232x300.png 232w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/5-791x1024.png 791w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/5-768x994.png 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/5-9x12.png 9w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\u53bb\u6bbc\u719f\u6d77\u87af\u8766\uff0c\u4f50\u8cbd\u8c9d\u6e6f\u4f50\u4f5b\u624b\u67d1<\/p>\n<p>R\u00a0&amp; D Chef\u00a0Mario Fu told me, \"Every season's opening at\u00a0noma\u00a0is very grand, so guests can immediately feel the current season as soon as they sit down.\" For example, the Game season opens with pheasant and reindeer\u00a0heart. Some refreshing dishes are interspersed to balance the palate, unlike traditional menus that sequentially present appetizers and main courses.\u00a0noma's menu is more like an exploration, creating unpretentious surprises, where you never know what the next dish will be.<\/p>\n<p>Another impressive dish was the\u00a0seaweed\u00a0\u00e0 la cr\u00e8me,\u00a0made with various seaweeds in a rich sauce of sweet shrimp and barley koji, drizzled with seaweed oil and sprinkled with horseradish. Despite being\u00a0\"\u00e0 la cr\u00e8me\", it contains no cream but is made from fermented shrimp paste, concentrated shrimp essence, and seaweed, giving it a sticky texture like lotus root starch or natto, likely very acceptable to Asians.<\/p>\n<p>Lightly cooked blue mussels paired with roasted yellow beets, seasoned with mussel caramel, combine the natural sweetness of mussels and beets with caramel's sweetness. The mussel\u00a0organs\u00a0were\u00a0removed, clearly requiring significant labor. Another fresh dish\u00a0of sea urchin in a clear tomato and fermented rice koji sauce,\u00a0with sliced hazelnuts, hazelnut oil, and rose oil, provided a refreshing taste experience. The book \"noma\u00a0Fermentation,\" published by\u00a0noma, is now globally widespread, seen not only in restaurants but also used by many bartenders, representing another form of \"open source.\"<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-3005 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/8.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"813\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/8.png 1080w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/8-300x226.png 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/8-1024x771.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/8-768x578.png 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/8-16x12.png 16w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Next was raw squid sliced thin and placed on slightly toasted barley koji \"cake,\" showcasing the rich flavor of fermented koji and the fresh taste of squid, unexpectedly creating an illusion of cumin flavor. Although an unusual combination, the different textures of fresh and rich interweaving was delicious.<\/p>\n<p>Confit cod roe placed on a waffle made from elderflower, Icelandic horseradish leaves, sansho berries, and spiced nuts, combined the umami of cod roe with the crunchy texture of the waffle, providing a unique taste experience. Freshly hand-dived scallops, with one side lightly seared, paired with sencha cream sauce, combining the fresh aroma of sencha with the tender scallops for a fresh and sweet taste. In Kyoto's vegetable season, the noma\u00a0team seemed increasingly familiar with incorporating tea into dishes. Returning to the cod feast, the cod head was cooked in various ways, showcasing the unique textures and flavors of different parts of the cod head, including gelatinous bone-in grilled fish tongue, confit cod eye with jasmine tea jelly, and the eye paired with ants and charcoal powder, alongside salmon roe, cod jowls with garlic sprouts, and cod jaw with smoked pumpkin. Each dish was outstanding, one of the highlights of the menu!<\/p>\n<p>SCOBY (Symbiotic Culture Of Bacteria and Yeast)\u00a0marinated with mussel juice, dried Arctic sea cucumber, and sea cucumber sauce showcased innovative fermentation techniques, combining complex fermented flavors with the unique texture of sea cucumber.<\/p>\n<p>Despite the fresh flavor of dried sea cucumber intestines balancing the high acidity, I still found it hard to handle. Next was charcoal-grilled\u00a0burbot, with a tender and delicate texture, slightly smoky flavor, and crispy and elastic skin, making it an interesting sequence of fresh followed by rich dishes.<\/p>\n<p>The first dessert, hazelnut mousse with seaweed oil, topped with sturgeon caviar, combined nutty flavors with the freshness of seaweed, offering a sweet and salty collision experience. The \"sweet\u00a0oyster\"\u00a0dessert mimicked oysters with milk ice cream, with oyster shells made of frozen cream, looking realistic and reminiscent of the clam granita I tasted last year at\u00a0noma\u00a0Kyoto, providing a delightful ending.<\/p>\n<p>Finally, the Petit Four\u00a0-\u00a0snobr\u00f8d paired with clam gel,\u00a0is a\u00a0traditional Danish bread roasted over an open flame, has a distinct buttery and wheat aroma, with a fluffy texture. The clam and citrus\u00a0gel\u00a0in the clamshell provided a refreshing sweet and sour taste, perfectly balancing the end of the meal.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3020 size-full aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/21.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1155\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/21.png 1080w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/21-281x300.png 281w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/21-958x1024.png 958w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/21-768x821.png 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/21-11x12.png 11w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>For me, noma\u00a0represents a few keywords: surprising, energetic, joyful, free, creative, inspiring, and\u00a0of course\u00a0outstanding quality. It is a school and a great restaurant that creates new chefs. Of course, what tastes good to you might not be the same for me. However, when comparing the three seasons together, the seafood season is undoubtedly the favorite for Chinese tastes.<\/p>\n<p>Although noma\u00a0will return to the same location as last year\u2014Ace Hotel Kyoto\u2014do not expect to taste the same dishes. \"Well, Kyoto in autumn will certainly offer a different experience; seasonality plays a crucial role with its 72 micro seasons,\"\u00a0Chef\u00a0Ren\u00e9\u00a0said in an email.\u00a0\u201cGame meats become available, and it\u2019s the high season for crab, bringing a completely different array of ingredients. We\u2019re also hoping for wild mushrooms.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>During the Spring's last pop-up\u00a0in Kyoto, the\u00a0noma\u00a0team's creativity flowed endlessly, with many outstanding dishes. Later, the dishes we tasted at\u00a0noma's vegetable season in Copenhagen also carried a strong Japanese influence.<\/p>\n<p>Ren\u00e9\u00a0said that after returning to Copenhagen last year, one question lingered in their minds: \"Is this just the beginning? We have established new friendships and connections with an incredible group of craftsmen, artists, farmers, and foragers, making us wonder: can we re-experience Kyoto in another special season, like the 'autumn leaves season' when the leaves change color and the entire city becomes a colorful canvas?\" They almost immediately started planning the return trip.<\/p>\n<p>The noma\u00a0team wants to re-explore Kyoto's mountains, forage for wild ingredients, deeply experience the crab harvest season, and explore all the new ingredients this autumn will offer. I wonder how\u00a0noma\u00a0will \"dissect\" crabs again, surely bringing unexpected surprises.<\/p>\n<p>After the second pop-up in Kyoto, when Ren\u00e9\u00a0Redzepi and his team return to Copenhagen, they will not immediately close the doors of this legendary restaurant.\u00a0noma\u00a02.0 will continue operating in the first half of 2025, with the final months featuring a seafood menu. The exact closing date has not been disclosed yet. If following previous seasons, the time could likely fall in June next year. For such a beautiful legendary restaurant (and considering the massive investment behind it), ceasing public operations still evokes a sense of lament.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-3022 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/23.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/23.jpg 1080w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/23-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/23-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/23-9x12.jpg 9w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The phenomenon of generational turnover in the culinary world is like a relay race. The rise of the El Bulli era, once the world's best restaurant, could continue to reign, driving the development of avant-garde cuisine in Spain (\uff0aFerran\u00a0Adri\u00e0\u00a0did not like\u00a0the term molecular gastronomy). Similarly,\u00a0noma's multiple awards as the world's best restaurant have drawn global attention. Its disciples are spread everywhere,\u00a0not only\u00a0in Copenhagen,\u00a0throughout Denmark\u00a0but also abroad.\u00a0After training\u00a0at\u00a0noma, many chefs\u00a0have opened excellent restaurants, with examples of\u00a0noma's influence even seen in other countries.When\u00a0noma\u00a0announced it would cease public operations,\u00a0Ren\u00e9\u00a0Redzepi mentioned in a media interview that he believes fine dining is unsustainable, relating to the industry's highly labor-intensive nature and low margins (especially given\u00a0noma's high welfare policy, where employees only need to work four days a week, a benefit policy gradually affecting other Nordic restaurants, some of which also close for three days). This interview triggered much criticism from many in the dining industry, who wondered if even\u00a0noma\u00a0couldn't sustain it, what about other fine dining restaurants? Perhaps\u00a0Ren\u00e9\u00a0honestly revealed the \"inconvenient truth\" that fine dining is difficult to profit from.<br \/>\n&nbsp;<br \/>\nnoma's atypical closure undoubtedly brings regret, but how to continue its legend is also a tough topic. Looking at\u00a0all those\u00a0legendary\u00a0restaurants, which\u00a0ones\u00a0have faded from our memory? For example, Sweden's F\u00e4viken near the Arctic Circle closed a few years ago, or El Bulli ended before I had a chance to try it, but the timing was missed. Life always has some regrets. Now that the World\u2019s 50 Best Restaurants rules prevent a restaurant from winning consecutively, will this affect the power of other cuisines to change the world? Building a reputation takes time, and we see that previous world number ones were last year's number two, like Denmark\u2019s Geranium, Peru\u2019s Central, and Spain\u2019s Disfrutar. This continuity seems less apparent now.noma\u00a01.0 closed in early 2017, and\u00a0noma\u00a02.0 reopened at the end of 2018. This nearly two-year hiatus indeed impacted tourism in Copenhagen and Denmark. During\u00a0noma\u00a01.0\u2019s closure, although Copenhagen still had other top restaurants like Geranium and Alchemist attracting tourists, the overall dining industry was not as thriving. Some media reports noted that during this period, Copenhagen's tourism and dining industry's performance was below expectations, partly attributed to\u00a0noma's temporary closure (source: OECD iLibrary). International tourism organization data shows that global tourism grew by 7.0% in 2017, the highest increase since the 2009 global economic crisis. However, Copenhagen's performance was relatively flat, indicating\u00a0noma's closure's actual impact on local tourism.<br \/>\n&nbsp;<br \/>\nNow Copenhagen's dining and tourism industry is gradually recovering. Besides noma, other top restaurants like Geranium, Alchemist, and the new Michelin three-star Jordn\u00e6r are attracting more and more food enthusiasts to Copenhagen. Coupled with\u00a0noma's widespread disciples, they have transformed the once culinary desert into an oasis, but without\u00a0noma\u00a0operating, it is indeed challenging for other restaurants to hold this ground during the transition period. In the 2024 Michelin Guide for the Nordic\u00a0countries, Copenhagen has a total of 26 Michelin-recommended restaurants, including starred restaurants, Bib Gourmand restaurants, and Michelin-recommended restaurants. With three\u00a03-star restaurants, a total of 15-starred restaurants, it can indeed be called a food capital for a city with a population of only 1.39 million.<br \/>\n&nbsp;<br \/>\nFor a single cuisine, achieving the legendary status of past restaurants like El Bulli or noma, known even to the general public, seems unlikely in the future. Now is a warring states period with various factions (cuisines) competing, and with the internet's push, information becomes chaotic and difficult to judge. The future revival of which cuisine is unknown, but at this point, Chinese cuisine holds a significant advantage. Previously underexplored Chinese cuisine now can truly let Western foodies experience authentic Chinese cooking through the expansion of top domestic restaurants overseas. This is an exciting direction, though it may just be my personal view.<\/p>\n<p>In the near future, when the\u00a0noma\u00a0team travels again, perhaps we will meet again somewhere in the world.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<\/section>\n<p>Author: Jocelyn \u83ef\u59d0<\/p>\n<p>\u5716\u7247:Peray Hsiao\/instagram@nomacph<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-2854 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/image-22.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"744\" height=\"1024\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/image-22.png 1027w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/image-22-218x300.png 218w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/image-22-744x1024.png 744w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/image-22-768x1057.png 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/image-22-9x12.png 9w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 744px) 100vw, 744px\" \/><\/p>\n<section><\/section>\n<\/section>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The most influential restaurant of this generation, noma, has been named the best restaurant in the world five times, changing the global perception of Nordic cuisine. Since its opening in 2003, after more than 20 years, it announced it would cease public operations at its peak and transition to a new model, which is regrettable. As the seafood season approaches, I have been looking forward to this for a long time.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":3030,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[45,58],"class_list":["post-2996","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-food","tag-45","tag-58"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v25.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>\u3010Jocelyn \u5c08\u6b04\u3011\u4e16\u754c\u7b2c\u4e00\u9910\u5ef3noma\u4eca\u5e74\u4e0d\u6703\u95dc\u9589\u4e86\u55ce\uff1f\u8ab0\u5c07\u6210\u70ba\u54e5\u672c\u54c8\u6839\u7684\u4e0b\u4e00\u5bb6 \u300cnoma\u300d\uff1f - TastyTrip<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"\u672c\u4e16\u4ee3\u6700\u6709\u5f71\u97ff\u529b\u7684\u9910\u5ef3noma\uff0c\u66fe\u4e94\u6b21\u7372\u5f97\u4e16\u754c\u6700\u4f73\u9910\u5ef3\u7a31\u865f\uff0c\u6539\u8b8a\u4e86\u5168\u4e16\u754c\u5c0d\u5317\u6b50\u6599\u7406\u7684\u770b\u6cd5\u3002\u81ea2003\u5e74\u958b\u59cb\u71df\u696d\uff0c\u7d93\u904e\u4e8620\u591a\u5e74\uff0c\u5728\u6700\u5dd4\u5cf0\u6642\u671f\u5ba3\u5e03\u5373\u5c07\u505c\u6b62\u5c0d\u5916\u71df\u696d\u4e26\u8f49\u578b\u7684\u6d88\u606f\uff0c\u8b93\u4eba\u611f\u5230\u60cb\u60dc\u3002\u4f86\u5230\u6d77\u9bae\u5b63\uff0c\u6211\u5df2\u7d93\u671f\u5f85\u5f88\u4e45\u3002\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/en\/noma-copenhagen\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"\u3010Jocelyn \u5c08\u6b04\u3011\u4e16\u754c\u7b2c\u4e00\u9910\u5ef3noma\u4eca\u5e74\u4e0d\u6703\u95dc\u9589\u4e86\u55ce\uff1f\u8ab0\u5c07\u6210\u70ba\u54e5\u672c\u54c8\u6839\u7684\u4e0b\u4e00\u5bb6 \u300cnoma\u300d\uff1f - 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