{"id":20982,"date":"2026-09-04T16:42:09","date_gmt":"2026-09-04T08:42:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/?p=20982"},"modified":"2026-09-04T18:15:09","modified_gmt":"2026-09-04T10:15:09","slug":"1887byandre","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/en\/1887byandre\/","title":{"rendered":"Somewhere in Time: 1887 by Andr\u00e9"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>By luck, I landed in Singapore just before the typhoon arrived, and checked into the legendary Raffles Hotel.<\/p>\n<p><iframe title=\"\u6c5f\u632f\u8aa0\u91cd\u8fd4\u65b0\u52a0\u5761\uff0c\u56de\u52301887\u820a\u6642\u5149 Somewhere in Time: 1887 by Andr\u00e9\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/OT7keSnLywE?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">@Jocelyn\u83ef\u59d0's TastyTrip YouTube<\/p>\n<p>News that Andr\u00e9 Chiang was returning to Singapore to open a restaurant had set the dining world abuzz. After all, eight years had passed since he closed Restaurant Andr\u00e9.<\/p>\n<p>In 2018, Andr\u00e9 closed Restaurant Andr\u00e9 at the height of its success and returned to Taiwan, devoting himself to RAW. Then, at the end of 2024, he brought RAW's ten-year run to a close and announced that he was stepping away from the restaurant front line. A little over a year later, he returned to Singapore and opened 1887 by Andr\u00e9 at Raffles Hotel.<\/p>\n<p>Isn't this whole sequence a little too dramatic? Even a television serial would not dare write it this way.<\/p>\n<p>On the global dining stage, he is one of Asia's most famous chefs - and one could even debate whether the words 'one of' are necessary. To outsiders, these decisions seem almost mad; yet on closer thought, they are unmistakably Andr\u00e9. He has always been a restless soul. Roughly every ten years, he wants to overturn himself and start again. Of course, carrying that level of fame also means living with controversy.<\/p>\n<p>But the world has never lacked safe, uninteresting people, and neither has the restaurant industry. Perhaps we are still talking about him today because he never chooses the safest, least risky and least interesting answer.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Into a Glorious Age Gone By<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>1887 was the year Raffles Hotel was founded.<\/p>\n<p>Walking into the restaurant feels like travelling through time. It is as if you have suddenly left present-day Singapore and entered a glorious age gone by.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-1.webp\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21369\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-1.webp\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"608\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-1.webp 1080w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-1-300x169.webp 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-1-1024x576.webp 1024w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-1-768x432.webp 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-1-18x10.webp 18w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/a>1887 by Andr\u00e9's Exeterior<\/p>\n<p>That illusion begins with the room itself. Architect and designer Bill Bensley has reimagined this formal dining room within Raffles Hotel - a space carrying a century of memories - as a tropical glasshouse with only 42 seats.<\/p>\n<p>The original herringbone timber floor has been meticulously preserved, edged in marble and continuing the hotel's strong sense of symmetry. Palm trees extend into hand-painted murals and a ceiling painted by Bill Bensley himself; mechanical punkah fans wrapped in emerald fabric sway slowly overhead; and the traveller's palm, a Raffles signature, reappears as sculpture among antiques and traditional silverware. At the centre hangs an opulent chandelier inspired by early electric bulbs, a fitting reference to Raffles having been one of the first hotels in the region to introduce electric lighting.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-2.png\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21372\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-2.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"778\" height=\"516\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-2.png 778w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-2-300x199.png 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-2-768x509.png 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-2-18x12.png 18w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 778px) 100vw, 778px\" \/><\/a>1887 by Andr\u00e9's Interior<\/p>\n<p>This is a lavish, theatrical room, entirely unafraid of excess. Before the first dish even arrives, it tells you which century you should inhabit for the evening.<\/p>\n<p>If you have never seen Somewhere in Time, the film follows a playwright played by Christopher Reeve who stays at the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island, Michigan. In a display of the hotel's history, he happens upon a photograph of an actress taken in 1912 and becomes captivated by her. He dresses in period clothes, removes everything on him that belongs to the modern world, and uses self-hypnosis to send himself back to 1912.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-9.png\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21401\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-9.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"945\" height=\"520\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-9.png 945w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-9-300x165.png 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-9-768x423.png 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-9-18x10.png 18w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 945px) 100vw, 945px\" \/><\/a>Movie: Somewhere in Time<\/p>\n<p>He does not enter another hotel, but another time within the same hotel: the corridor is still the same corridor, the room remains where it was, but the light, music, clothes and people around him all belong to another era. More coincidentally still, the Grand Hotel where the film was shot was also founded in 1887. When I walked into 1887 at Raffles Hotel that evening, this was the feeling I remembered from the film.<\/p>\n<p>For the past decade, fine dining has been dominated by Nordic aesthetics, naturalism and minimalism. Rooms were expected to be quiet, plates to leave empty space, and food to be reduced to a series of precise compositions. But after looking at it and eating it for so long, I sometimes wonder: have we grown a little tired of it?<\/p>\n<p>Perhaps there comes a point when we begin to miss brilliance and splendour.<\/p>\n<p>1887 makes no attempt to restrain itself. Silverware, trolleys, tableside service and one elaborate dish after another: what this place believes in is not minimalism, but a declaration - I want splendour.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-4.webp\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21374\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-4.webp\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"608\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-4.webp 1080w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-4-300x169.webp 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-4-1024x576.webp 1024w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-4-768x432.webp 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-4-18x10.webp 18w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/a>1887 by Andr\u00e9's Steak Cart<\/p>\n<p>Nor is it simply a restaurant decorated as a period set.<\/p>\n<p>This time, Andr\u00e9 has taken the perspective of Raffles Hotel, curating a restaurant that belongs to the hotel. In an interview, he said:<\/p>\n<p>'It is no longer only Andr\u00e9's cuisine.'<\/p>\n<p>1887 is not another Restaurant Andr\u00e9. Andr\u00e9 spent more than a year reading through old menus preserved by Raffles Hotel, studying the changes the hotel witnessed through the colonial era, the years when Singapore was part of Malaysia and the period after independence, then returning those histories to the table in new form. What I admire most in him is his seemingly inexhaustible creativity.<\/p>\n<p>The wartime silver is genuinely used, the old trolleys really do roll up to the table, and dishes from the past are reborn in another form.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-5.webp\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21375\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-5.webp\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"608\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-5.webp 1080w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-5-300x169.webp 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-5-1024x576.webp 1024w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-5-768x432.webp 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-5-18x10.webp 18w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/a>1887 by Andr\u00e9''s Tableware<\/p>\n<p>Here, history is set in motion once again.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Giving Choice Back to the Guest<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The most astonishing thing about 1887 is its menu.<\/p>\n<p>Nearly sixty dishes, offered mainly \u00e0 la carte, allow guests to choose what to eat, how much to eat and in which era they wish to linger.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-10.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21405\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-10.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1050\" height=\"910\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-10.png 1050w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-10-300x260.png 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-10-1024x887.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-10-768x666.png 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-10-14x12.png 14w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1050px) 100vw, 1050px\" \/><\/a>1887 by Andr\u00e9's menu<\/p>\n<p>Outside Chinese restaurants, almost no new high-end Western restaurant would dare do this today.<\/p>\n<p>For a restaurant, a fixed tasting menu is easier to control. The quantity of ingredients required each day, the number of courses guests will eat and the sequence of service can all be calculated. But close to sixty \u00e0 la carte dishes mean the kitchen must prepare a vast range of ingredients, sauces and garnishes at the same time, while accommodating entirely different combinations of orders. Ingredient costs, preparation pressure and the complexity of dining-room service all become astonishingly high.<\/p>\n<p>What Andr\u00e9 wants is to return the power of choice to the guest.<\/p>\n<p>You can come for a complete dinner, or order only the few dishes you truly want. You can remain in the Victorian era, jump suddenly into the flavours of Singapore's streets, then move into Andr\u00e9's own culinary memories.<\/p>\n<p>Every table can choose its own timeline.<\/p>\n<p><strong>A World Overseen by a Detail Obsessive<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>From the amuse-bouches onward that evening, Andr\u00e9's almost punishing control of detail was already evident.<\/p>\n<p>It is not simply a matter of handling the main ingredient. Every component, every layer of flavour, the vessel, the temperature and the manner in which a dish reaches the table are considered within the same frame. The splendour does not come from piling costly ingredients onto a plate, but from the completeness that emerges only after a detail obsessive has repeatedly examined every link in the chain.<\/p>\n<p>The opening five amuse-bouches read like a condensed culinary biography. Bone &amp; Flesh pairs fried beef tendon with salt-koji Wagyu ham, speaking to the flesh-and-blood bond between Andr\u00e9 and his team. Fish &amp; Chips looks back across the restaurants he has passed through. A Singapore chilli spring roll with mint and a Yilan ox-tongue pastry place Singapore and Taiwan on the same plate. Finally, ocean trout with air bread pays tribute to a cherished friend of many years. The portions are tiny, but every bite carries a story. Several are former heavy-hitters, their seasoning adjusted for 1887. Is an amuse-bouche of this calibre not almost unfair?<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-4.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21377\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-4.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"920\" height=\"922\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-4.png 920w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-4-300x300.png 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-4-150x150.png 150w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-4-768x770.png 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-4-12x12.png 12w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 920px) 100vw, 920px\" \/><\/a>amuse bouche<\/p>\n<p>Black Truffle Pain Perdu is a classic from the RAW years. Traditional pain perdu is bread soaked in egg and pan-fried; here the exterior is baked crisp, while the centre is filled with a soft custard of egg and milk, then layered with wild mushrooms, black truffle and brown butter carrying a trace of smoke. It is unmistakably French toast, yet at once crisp, soft, moist and deeply earthy.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-6.webp\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21378\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-6.webp\" alt=\"\" width=\"988\" height=\"550\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-6.webp 988w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-6-300x167.webp 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-6-768x428.webp 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-6-18x10.webp 18w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 988px) 100vw, 988px\" \/><\/a>Black Truffle Pain Perdu<\/p>\n<p>The green curry crab that follows turns the ordinarily rich and exuberant curry into a light sorbet, paired with a sweet crab salad. The bread that would traditionally appear alongside it is transformed into a smooth sourdough bread sauce. The spices are vivid, yet there is no heaviness at all; instead, it feels perfectly suited to Singapore's weather.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-7.webp\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21379\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-7.webp\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"608\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-7.webp 1080w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-7-300x169.webp 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-7-1024x576.webp 1024w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-7-768x432.webp 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-7-18x10.webp 18w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/a>Green Curry Crab<\/p>\n<p>Of all the dishes in the meal, Turtle Soup feels most like time travel. According to the explanation that evening, turtle soup appeared on Raffles Hotel menus more than a century ago, including records of a banquet held during the British Queen's visit to Singapore. At a time when fine dining was led by European luxury ingredients, placing a turtle soup with distinctly Asian associations on a formal menu was a bold act.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-5.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21380\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-5.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-5.png 1080w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-5-300x167.png 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-5-1024x569.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-5-768x427.png 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-5-18x10.png 18w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/a>Raffles Hotel's menu<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-6.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21381\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-6.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"613\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-6.png 1080w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-6-300x170.png 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-6-1024x581.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-6-768x436.png 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-6-18x10.png 18w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/a>Turtle Soup<\/p>\n<p>It would, of course, be impossible to prepare it today in the original manner. The 1887 version contains no turtle. Instead, chicken, fish maw and grouper recreate the rich, silky, gelatinous texture, with flavours carrying notes of Chinese herbal medicine. It does not reproduce an old recipe unchanged; it answers the same dish anew through the lens of environmental ethics and contemporary ideas about food.<\/p>\n<p>I love this idea. True tradition is about making a dish timeless.<\/p>\n<p>The snail lollipop pays tribute to Pierre Gagnaire, under whom Andr\u00e9 trained thirty years ago. A snail is suspended in a transparent consomm\u00e9 jelly, coated in breadcrumbs and fried golden, then served with parsley and garlic sauce. In a single bite come silkiness, crispness and the springy tenderness of the snail. The form is slightly mischievous, but the technique is exact.<\/p>\n<p>The vegetable dish named for Sarah Bernhardt begins with the classic French technique En Vessie. Traditionally, ingredients were sealed inside a pig's bladder and cooked slowly; 1887 uses cellophane to recreate the same environment, sealing seasonal vegetables, herbs and stock within. Only when the parcel is opened does the aroma slowly escape, accompanied by the colours of Romanesco, watermelon radish and turnip. The dish does not rely on expensive ingredients, yet it makes an almost vanished technique beautiful again.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-8.webp\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21382\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-8.webp\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"598\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-8.webp 1080w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-8-300x166.webp 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-8-1024x567.webp 1024w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-8-768x425.webp 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-8-18x10.webp 18w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nThe most theatrical dish is Boeuf aux 7 poivres 1887. During the Second World War, Raffles Hotel buried its silver beneath Palm Court for safekeeping. During works carried out from 1952 to 1953, 677 pieces were recovered; components of the steak trolley used today were among them. When that old trolley is wheeled to the table, history is no longer merely a story told by the service team.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-9.webp\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21383\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-9.webp\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"619\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-9.webp 1080w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-9-300x172.webp 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-9-1024x587.webp 1024w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-9-768x440.webp 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-9-18x10.webp 18w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/a>Boeuf aux 7 poivres 1887<\/p>\n<p>The beef short rib is seared, then grilled over charcoal, leaving a delicate smoky scent on the surface. The sauce combines seven spices, including brined green peppercorn, Japanese sansho, long pepper and Madagascan wild pepper. It is a deep flavour that emerges slowly and remains elegant. The trolley, the silverware and the act of carving at the table are all part of the dish.<\/p>\n<p>The final purple dessert continues this complexity. A beetroot meringue conceals a wild-berry salad and Sangria Sorbet, while a Champagne glass holds Kir Royal jelly, ros\u00e9 Champagne bubbles and fresh grapes. To eat it, you first stir together the elements in the glass, crack open the meringue, then pour everything together. The colour, acidity, sweetness, bubbles and contrasting textures make this a flavour for grown-ups.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-7.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21385\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-7.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"900\" height=\"619\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-7.png 900w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-7-300x206.png 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-7-768x528.png 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-7-18x12.png 18w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><\/a>The Violet<\/p>\n<p><strong>Not the Most Expensive, but My Favourite Dish<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>If I had to choose my favourite dish of the evening, it would still be the Raffles Laksa Paella.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-12.webp\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21387\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-12.webp\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"608\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-12.webp 1080w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-12-300x169.webp 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-12-1024x576.webp 1024w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-12-768x432.webp 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-12-18x10.webp 18w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/a>Raffles Laksa Paella<\/p>\n<p>It is not the most expensive dish on the menu, nor does it flaunt rare ingredients. But laksa, seafood, rice and crisped rice are exactly the elements I love. More importantly, this is a dish obsessed with timing.<\/p>\n<p>The chefs place the richness of coconut milk, chilli and shrimp paste from laksa within the structure of a Spanish paella. The rice and seafood are cooked separately: the rice absorbs seafood stock and laksa spices, while a crisp socarrat forms beneath; the seafood does not have to wait alongside the rice, so its doneness remains almost faultless. There is heat, but it never overwhelms the seafood, and the vegetables retain exactly the right texture.<\/p>\n<p>Every detail is taken to its limit. To raise familiar flavours to this height - this is where true mastery shows itself.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Behind the Splendour, Enormous Pressure<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The dining-room service at 1887 is extraordinarily complex.<\/p>\n<p>Some dishes require soup to be poured at the table; others must be carved or divided in front of the guest; still others involve different pieces of antique tableware and their stories. The service team must remember more than ingredients and technique. They must also know the era to which each dish belongs, the history behind it, and how to explain all of this to the guest.<\/p>\n<p>And they cannot allow the guest to feel any of that pressure.<\/p>\n<p>As I ate, I found the service extraordinarily precise; at the same time, I could not help thinking that working here must be immensely stressful. The guest sees splendour. The staff face countless details in which nothing can be allowed to go wrong.<\/p>\n<p>Many people in the 1887 kitchen came from RAW. Executive Chef Ben Wang and Sous Chef Roy Kuo now oversee the restaurant's daily operation. Ben joined RAW in 2016 and later became its head chef; Roy also spent eight years at RAW and is the man Andr\u00e9 has described as his deeply trusted 'left hand'. They told me about the period before opening: relentless pressure, with nights so busy that they would simply lie down on the kitchen floor.<\/p>\n<p>When RAW ended, Andr\u00e9 found himself thinking: where would the young people who had followed him for so many years go next?<\/p>\n<p>Perhaps 1887 is one of his answers. He has stepped away from the front line and no longer stands in the kitchen every day, personally bringing every task to completion. Instead, as curator and mentor, he sets the overall direction, menu and standards, then gives the real stage to the next generation. 1887 is neither a reversal of Andr\u00e9's supposed 'retirement' nor simply a high-profile return. He has merely changed his position again.<\/p>\n<p>In the past, what he wanted to prove was Andr\u00e9's cuisine. Now, he wants to organise the history of Raffles Hotel, while creating a stage on which the team that has followed him for years can move towards the future.<\/p>\n<p>This meal appears to keep moving backwards: to 1887, to turtle soup, silverware, the beef trolley and a glittering age gone by.<\/p>\n<p>Perhaps what he truly wants to address is the future.<\/p>\n<p>Perhaps this is what makes Andr\u00e9 most interesting now. He remains the restless soul who wants to overturn himself every ten years. But in this decade, he no longer wants only to create a restaurant of his own. He has begun to consider what he can leave to a place, a piece of history and the next generation.<\/p>\n<p>The generation of chefs to which Andr\u00e9 belongs is distinctive. Those close to his age who came to international attention at roughly the same time include Grant Achatz, Mauro Colagreco, Ren\u00e9 Redzepi and Virgilio Mart\u00ednez. Of course, they did not all peel potatoes at the same age or in the same kitchen. What they share is a long and demanding apprenticeship in professional kitchens.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-13.webp\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21388\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-13.webp\" alt=\"\" width=\"920\" height=\"354\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-13.webp 920w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-13-300x115.webp 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-13-768x296.webp 768w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-13-18x7.webp 18w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 920px) 100vw, 920px\" \/><\/a>Grant Achatz&amp;Mauro Colagreco&amp;Ren\u00e9 Redzepi&amp;Virgilio Mart\u00ednez @instagram<\/p>\n<p>Andr\u00e9 began his cooking career at thirteen; Redzepi entered culinary school at fifteen; Achatz started in his family's small restaurant and later joined The French Laundry; Colagreco learned, one kitchen at a time, under Bernard Loiseau, Alain Passard and Alain Ducasse. That generation began with the fundamentals - preparation, cleaning, knife work and the stove - repeating the same tasks hundreds and thousands of times, accumulating ten, twenty or even thirty years of experience before arriving where they are today.<\/p>\n<p>This is very different from our era of rapid fame. Today, a chef may enter a ranking, win an award or become head chef at a celebrated restaurant and quickly be seen by everyone. But visibility is not the same as having roots; publicity cannot replace time. An award can bring attention overnight, but it cannot compress the years that must be lived slowly inside a kitchen. Some things cannot be achieved in a single leap. Without the accumulation of fundamentals, even the most beautiful halo may prove fleeting.<\/p>\n<p>Of course, carrying such a level of fame also means facing harsher criticism. Every decision he makes is magnified and inevitably becomes controversial. I am not saying he should be beyond criticism, nor do I believe every choice he makes is correct.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-14.webp\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21389\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-14.webp\" alt=\"\" width=\"505\" height=\"799\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-14.webp 505w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-14-190x300.webp 190w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-14-8x12.webp 8w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 505px) 100vw, 505px\" \/><\/a>1887 by Andr\u00e9's Chef Andr\u00e9<\/p>\n<p><strong>The Star He Doesn't Care About, but the Rest of Us Do<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>If you lay out Andr\u00e9's career to date, he has probably received every honour a chef could hope for: two Michelin stars, Asia's 50 Best Restaurants, The World's 50 Best Restaurants and a lifetime achievement award. If these achievements are treated as a grand slam, the only thing missing may be one Michelin star.<\/p>\n<p>I know he no longer cares about three stars.<\/p>\n<p>Those of us watching from the side, however, cannot help feeling a little regret on his behalf: after coming this far, it seems that only the last small step is missing.<\/p>\n<p>Whenever Andr\u00e9 launches a restaurant genuinely built to fine-dining standards, Michelin is almost incapable of giving him only one star.<\/p>\n<p>His restaurants do not begin by testing slowly and revising what fails. They open with the entire standard set extraordinarily high. Food, tableware, space, service, narrative and dining-room choreography all arrive together. Other restaurants may need years to build their systems gradually; he presents something close to a finished form on the first day.<\/p>\n<p>Restaurant Andr\u00e9 entered the MICHELIN Guide Singapore for the first time with two stars; Sichuan Moon received two stars at its first assessment; and now 1887 has gone straight to two stars less than five months after opening. It has almost become a rule: his fine-dining restaurants start at two stars.<\/p>\n<p>Some will, of course, think of RAW. But I have never placed the earliest version of RAW in the same category. When RAW first opened, it was positioned as a bistro: freer, closer to urban life, and unlike Restaurant Andr\u00e9, Sichuan Moon or 1887, which were conceived from the outset as complete fine-dining restaurants.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-15.webp\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21391\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-15.webp\" alt=\"\" width=\"665\" height=\"464\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-15.webp 665w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-15-300x209.webp 300w, https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640-15-18x12.webp 18w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 665px) 100vw, 665px\" \/><\/a>2018 Resturant\u00a0Andr\u00e9 ( Pam , author and \u00a0Andr\u00e9 )\n\/\u00a02022 Sichuan Moon<\/p>\n<p>Looking back, Andr\u00e9's luck with Michelin stars may not have been as good as outsiders imagine.<\/p>\n<p>Restaurant Andr\u00e9 closed in February 2018, while the MICHELIN Guide Singapore was launched only in 2016. In other words, the restaurant went through just two editions of the guide and received two stars both times. Only after it closed did Odette and Les Amis rise to three stars in 2019; Z\u00e9n joined the three-star ranks in 2021. To some extent, Singapore's present three-star landscape took shape only after Restaurant Andr\u00e9 had left the stage.<\/p>\n<p>Sichuan Moon was another problem of timing. It entered the guide with two stars, and from the scale of the restaurant and its ambition, I always felt it had been conceived on a three-star level. But not long after opening, it encountered the pandemic, which had a severe impact on tourism and the hotel industry in Macau.<\/p>\n<p>Michelin defines three stars as 'exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey'. By that standard, I have always believed Restaurant Andr\u00e9 deserved three stars. It was genuinely a restaurant that would make someone fly to Singapore specifically to eat there. You did not fit it casually into a trip; you might arrange the entire journey around that single meal.<\/p>\n<p>With 1887, Michelin seems to have another chance to answer that question.<\/p>\n<p>In my experience, if I insist on being extremely exacting in my criticism, I can only say that it is simply too lavish. There are too many details. Every dish has a background; every piece of tableware, every component and every tableside action has a reason. You must keep listening and keep understanding. At times, the sheer volume of information feels overwhelming.<\/p>\n<p>The contradiction is that those details are genuinely fascinating, and you still want to know. In the end, even criticism becomes complicated: the problem may be that there is too much, yet you cannot bear to lose any part of it.<\/p>\n<p>When I was drinking the soup that evening, I watched a member of the service team complete the final procedure at the table using a siphon. The movements were difficult and the steps elaborate. I found it impressive, yet could not help thinking: is it really necessary to go this far? It is practically torture for the dining-room staff.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640.gif\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21392\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tastytrip.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/640.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"426\" height=\"240\" \/><\/a>Charcoal\u2011Tea Consomm\u00e9 Prepared via Siphon Method<\/p>\n<p>But that, perhaps, is Andr\u00e9 Chiang.<\/p>\n<p>So does the third star matter?<\/p>\n<p>To Andr\u00e9 himself, it may have ceased to matter long ago. He does not need another star to prove himself, nor would its absence diminish his influence on the Asian restaurant industry. But if we look at his career as a grand slam, it remains the final empty space.<\/p>\n<p>This may not be his unfinished business. It may simply be the small regret held by those watching from the sidelines.<\/p>\n<p>Now 1887 has opened with two stars once again. The genuinely interesting question is what happens next: this time, will Michelin give him the third star first, or will Andr\u00e9 change himself once again before it does?<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u5e78\u904b\u7684\u5728\u98b1\u98a8\u62b5\u9054\u524d\uff0c\u843d\u5730\u65b0\u52a0\u5761\uff0c\u6211\u5165\u4f4f\u4e86\u50b3\u5947\u7684 Raffles Hotel\u3002 @Jocelyn\u83ef\u59d0\u7684Tasty [&hellip;]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":21393,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[87,19],"tags":[42,43],"class_list":["post-20982","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-87","category-news","tag-42","tag-43"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v25.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>\u3010Jocelyn\u5c08\u6b04\u3011\u4e00\u5834\u6642\u7a7a\u65c5\u884c\uff1a\u6211\u5728 1887 by Andr\u00e9 - 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